Here are the photos of today

I’m trying to upload another pic of what it looked like before but seems it won’t let me. Thanks for any suggestions you can offer.

Not sure if this post will upload as many of my posts don't seem to make it through the process; but, Let the plant sort it out. There really isn't anything you can do to fix the frozen parts or hasten the process other than providing the most favorable cultural conditions possible, and don't do any more pruning for now. If the plant is still viable, it will back-bud on older wood that would be more resistant to cold temperatures. The main thing to watch out for is the fact that the plant's water use will drop precipitously, so make very sure the plant is nearly dry at the bottom of the pot before you water again. This piece about "Using a Tell" will help you with that.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips in order to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions - which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma and creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell' (more reliable than a 'moisture meter'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) works better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half or in several pieces, depending on how deep your pots are. Sharpen both ends of each tell in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell's tip comes out nearly dry. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al

You have a tropical TREE in a SMALL POT, in a BRIGHT window.

That, "TELLS" me, JUST WATER IT ALREADY!

Not that complicated.

When leaves freeze they lose the ability to move water and nutrients into and photosynthate out of the affected foliage, which means the amount of water the plant can use drops to near zero. This means over-watering is at the top of things to avoid. Even if the plant was healthy, from the information provided there is no reason to believe the plant is under-watered, but there is good reason to believe it might not need water for a month or even more. @antiguamarie should be extremely careful to avoid over-watering and the best way to do that is use a tell to check moisture levels at the bottom of the pot.

It cannot be logically concluded that because a tree is a tropical plant in a bright spot and potted in a smallish pot that it needs water.

Al

Al, thank you so much. And in fact, I watered it the day before it did its second “flop”. So thats exactly what caused it!

I did check water levels and thanks to your advice years ago, I use a wooden skewer for every plant including this one but I think I assumed it needed water as I had withheld it for three weeks.
I’ll just leave it alone now and give it light and warmth and hope for the best.

You had also advised me when I first brought it home from Home Depot that the leaf issues I asked about were mechanical injuries. It grew beautifully since then, here’s a picture right before the freeze took effect.
Thanks for always answering so thoroughly.

You're welcome - my pleasure.

Al