NO! this is a nothing event.

let the plant take care of it ..

ANYTHING you dream up is contrary to nature ...

water properly.. and give it a year to let it dry and heal itself...

no painting.. no fert... no nothing.. just water properly like youve done forever..

and keep the rugrat away from it.. really .. the rugrat did a crime of passion??? ... lol

ken

Whew, ok thanks. I will just let it roll then. Normally, she likes to "help" take care of the plants. Not sure how this one insulted her, but she thought it had to go. 🤷🏻‍♀️

@tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a) I think they call that tool a nipper. I just recently bought one on Amazon that I used to attack a bolt head through a thin pipe.

When using wood glue to seal a wound, are you expecting that to eventually just fall off as the wound hardens? Does it make sense to coat the wound with sulfur powder before applying the glue?

An end nipper

is different than a concave branch cutter; however, there are tools used for working on trees which resemble the end nippers. Those would be branch/trunk splitters:

and root cutters:

When using wood glue to seal a wound, are you expecting that to eventually just fall off as the wound hardens? In the case of the ponytail, the glue will harden and the callus tissue which arises from the cambial layer. There will still be a small indentation after callus completely covers the wound, but as noted, the would will be much smaller than it would be if left untreated.

Does it make sense to coat the wound with sulfur powder before applying the glue?

I have never used sulfur powder on wounds for 2 reasons, The first is, I'm primarily dealing with woody plants and it isn't necessary. Second, I don't know how the sulfur would affect the glue's adherence or the integrity/ durability of the glue itself, so I can't say. I use it very regularly though, on succulents whenever I prune anything larger than pencil thick branches, and I haven't had a problem. If you decide to adopt he practice and use sulfur powder, let us know how it works.

There is a product specifically designed to cover wounds on small trees. It's called cut paste and comes in a consistency about like modeling clay or a paste a little thicker than toothpaste. Like wood glue, it is designed to prevent desiccation of viable wood surrounding the wound and to keep insects out.

Al

@tapla I guess as long as you size the tool correctly, a good nipper can do all those jobs. But it is good to understand that these specialized tools have even more sub-specializations.

I found a few cut paste products, but none of those discloses ingredients well in the marketing descriptions. I like your idea of using wood glue.

https://www.amazon.com/New-Kiyonal-Bonsai-Pruning-Compound/dp/B00DJM7TMI

https://www.amazon.com/Bonide-225-16-Ounce-Pruning-Sealer/dp/B000BZ1JKY

Oh no, poor palm! But don't worry, it's not a goner. Just trim the rough edges of the gash with clean scissors to prevent infection, and let it dry out to form a natural seal. Keep it in stable conditions—enough light and not too much water. It should heal up fine with some TLC!

Trimming the edges of a wound with a crushing tool like scissors/ secateurs is not a good strategy. While it's true that cleaning up the edges of a wound with an extremely sharp cutting tool like a single edge razor blade/ utility knife blade or a scalpel hastens "healing", tools like scissors and secateurs crush delicate cambial tissues, which increases the probability of fungal/ rot issues and is likely to increase the size of the wound and the time it takes the wound to heal.

Also, allowing the wound to dry out is very counterproductive as it ENSURES desiccation of viable tissue surrounding the wound, which also increases the size of the would and the length of time it will take for the wound to close.

Al