Get a professional tub reglazer to strip and reglaze it. It will look as good as new

This shouldn't be any better or any worse than a big box store solid wood, factory finished, floor. Low gloss aluminium oxide/urethane finish. It will be beautiful. The low gloss will show things like skin oils (foot prints...even stocking feet will leave oil prints) and dust. Aluminum oxide (AO) is very tough. Once it starts to scratch (and it will...it just takes time) those scratches turn BRILLIANT white. On a dark floor like this, you will see them very easily. Touch-up pens rarely work on AO because the scratches do NOT reach the wood. And AO is very tough to add a finish to (which is what a touch up pen is). As a $4/sf solid oak floor, I'm sure it will be fine. Technically these floors can be sanded and refinished. The AO, being so tough, is harder to refinish (the first time). The bevels will be lost once the first refinishing has occurred. In 20 years or so, when you are ready to refinish the floors (your fed up with all the brilliant white scratches all over the floor) you will need to be prepared to spend EXTRA because the finish will take +++time and effort to remove. Once it is gone, it is gone and you never have to worry about it again...but the first time will be almost double the regular cost to refinish (going rate for a full sand and refinish = $5/sf...at today's rate this floor would be $8 - $10/sf to sand and refinish because of the AO on it). It's a "nice" floor for a low-end price. It will get you what you want/need for the next 20 years or so (depends on how long you can live with white scratches). Be careful with the install and be prepared to add costs to subfloor prep. Lowes, HD, etc are notorious for selling their installation services for a very low price (they don't even send someone to the home to inspect the space) and then the home owners are surprised to find out that NOTHING was added for prep. There is always prep. Always. And it can range from $1-$4/sf...and then the labor to install the floor is ON TOP OF THAT price. Before you pay for their installation service, make sure SOMEONE comes to your home to offer a REALISTIC installation quote. Never trust someone who offers an installation quote without walking through your home. Never. The quality of work won't be worth the paper the quote is written on. Good luck. Get proper installation quotes from professionals and see if they will even work with a big box store material. Many professionals won't.

I like SW warm stone. My house used to be BM Brairwood with white trim & Essex green door, which is similar to your choices, I loved it. Really not sure what color you should do your fence but definitely not same color as house.

I thought about it once. It was a linen fabric with wood buttons on the hem. But, it was too short for the window I wanted, and no longer being carried by the department store. (I cried) The one you've linked is polyester, so it might work fine - just don't use plastic, vinyl or pvc material that some shower curtains are made from. The grommets with the rings as shown in your example might work on a 1 or 2-inch rod, most shower curtain rings are large enough to use just like the grommets on drape panels (so you wouldn't have to sew and you can use standard shower curtain rings). You could call the manufacturer for sizing. (also, most shower curtains come in standard 70-72 widths and up to 73 tall - so take that into consideration when measuring your windows). Rings are easier when opening/closing curtains, as "clips" tend to fall off and don't glide easily when you want to open/close the curtains. As for transparent (see-through), or opaque (not able to see through), if you want privacy, you'd want opaque or, use a drapery liner with a transparent curtain. Call the manufacturer to confirm.