Both have been fine for me. Don't graft anything on to G16 trees, they are virus sensitive and it will often kill the tree. One thing I don't like about them is that means I can't topwork the trees later if I don't like the variety. So this winter I am just going to chop down some G16s I don't like the varieties on. If you are not grafting this is all moot.

Scott

thanks scottfsmith....

I bought the G16 honeycrisp from a reputable nursery...
so I assumed they know what they were doing. Still the scions withered and the plant died on these rootstocks....very mysteriously.

G11 is suppose to be M26 size but better productivity, disease resistance e.t.c.

If there are dark rings in the wood when you prune, it might be verticillium wilt.

It did not attack the foliage. Just attacked the bark of my Enterprise G16...looked like something was eating the wood or something. When I pruned to get rid of it...it would appear again in the wood as dark spots then scarring of the wood tissue. I have cut down the entire scion and asphalt sealed the fresh cut as to try to stop anything attacking it. Seems to have stopped...???

Kokos: I have a Liberty on G11, in 2nd leaf this year and it has done very well. In addition, I also have two 1st leaf apple trees that were t-budded onto G11 in the Spring of 09, they grew about 4' this year and I only watered them once or twice during the extremely dry 2nd half of the summer. The budded trees' buds came from a very old tree of unknown variety. BTW, the Liberty flowered this year, guess Liberty on G11 makes for a precocious tree.

Michael357 who was the source for these trees?
I can get my hands on MITCHELL STRAIN GALA ON GENEVA 30....
can't wait to try it. What spacing should i use in rich soil?
the nursery says 8-12 foot spacing for GENEVA 30.

Kokos: the rootstock and the Liberty both came from Cummins Nursery, I had to order the Liberty about a year +- in advance so they could graft it.

As far as spacing, I can only say that it is depends on the rootstock, scion, soil and how you train the tree. I have 9 different young trees on semidwarf rootstocks on 18' centers and trained to central leaders. If I did it all again I'd use 20-24' spacing or do a better job of training in the first 3 years. The trees can still and will be trained to fit their spaces better, they aren't out of room by any means but they definitely will not be allowed to get crowded as it makes all the cultural practices more difficult and certainly doesn't help in disease control.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cummins Nursery

Kokos:

Be careful going with Gala on Geneva 30. That's the one variety that's notorious for snapping off at the graft union when grafted to G.30. It's advised that if you have Gala on G.30 that you have the tree tethered to trellising at 2 points so the tree doesn't have the ability to twist in the wind.

I think if you Google "Geneva 30" Gala and "Graft Union" you'll see a lot of comments about this.

John

The only apple I have on G16 is a Mutsu, and it is developing more slowly than my M7 trees. I have been budding to G30, and will place the first of those trees in my orchard next spring. G30 is supposed to be an improved replacement for M7. Of course, I hear there are better rootstocks in the pipeline. Our orchards are shaped by what's "hot" at that moment in time.

Marc