Since new growth has started, you might give it more time before potting. It is normal to have them unpotted for a period, isn't it? I'll have to differ to those who know Cyc, but it sounds like this one might pull through.

Richard, some people let them winter w/ bare roots. The plants may get thrown in a closet or set on sphag so it's easy to check for truly shriveled pbs.

Others cut off the roots at the end of the growing season.

So far, I've reduced then eliminated water over the winter - another option. Except for the one the cats got & maybe this one, everything's pulled through & rebloomed.

Thanks for your take on this. Whitecat8

That was quick!, must be spring or something....
I would not count my chickens yet, a little bump on a 2 inch or less piece of bulb does not equate to a plantlet with roots.
It is a good start, just let it do its thing. Look for roots, and leave it attached to the bulb until the bulb shrivels up completely. When there are a few roots, post another picture and we'll go from there. I would let the bulb nourish the keiki until its last breath, then gently separate the two and now you have a herrenhusanum seedling and treat it just like any other orchid seedling. If you have a 2 inch clay pot, you can place it there with a bit of moist sphagnum. DO not stuff the moss just to keep the plant upright, it will hold too much water and rot it, if you get water in the crown of leaves it will rot in a flash.

You could also just leave it in the empty clay pot itself. The roots will attach to the pot and would be much safer then having to repot it. Do NOT move it in and out of the pot, and do not move the pot around. Place it in one spot, mark the edge of the pot so you know how it was oriented and place facing the same way after you pick up the pot. I like the idea of leaving the seedling in the pot attached to bulb and letting it root there. If anything this would be a cool learning lessons for cycnoches growing.

Thanks, guys,

Ben, if I'm understanding you - until there are substantial roots on this baby bump, and the current bulb is shriveled to the max, it should stay in the bottom of the clay pot.

The clay pot should be in intermediate conditions, along w/ the other orchids in that room.

It looks so lonely. (New growth isn't visible but isn't touching the pot.)

{{gwi:171728}}

Thanks, WC8

Hmm...
Thanks for asking for my thoughts, but I know nothin' about Cycnoches!
I'm thrilled that I haven't killed my last surviving Catasetum.
It does sound like they rot if you get water within half a mile of them before the roots are long enough.
Just don't sneeze or it's a goner! ;~)

How about if I defer to someone that knows what they're doin'! ;~)
This link looks right up your alley.

Here is a link that might be useful: Budsy's Catasetinae 'n Such

Scott, I'm losing my mind. What do you have 800+ of in your greenhouse? Or, do I have you confused w/ someone else?

All this time, I've thought you were the one talking w/ Carolyn about Cycs and Ctsm. Senior blonde moments are the worst.

Didn't mean to ask you about something you weren't familiar with. Extra thanks for posting the link.

Whitecat8

Most all of my orchids are under lights...
Tons and tons of lights!
The greenhouse keeps getting pushed to the back burner!:~(

We were likely talkin' about Stanhopea and other monsters!
Speakin' of which, my Stan. inodoraÂBelize is in spike again. :~)
Not sure why it's the only one that ever blooms, as I have several that are four times it's size and I'd like to see something new! ;~)
Scott

Hi WC8,

Slowly catching up here :)

Sorry, but I missed what even happened to your poor ctsm! But congrats that you seem to have kept it going.

What I do at this point "been there at least a few times myself;) > is set the piece on top of sphag or lava rocks or alifluor and then lightly mist it daily, or spray the media to slightly dampen it, and then put the piece back down. I do this to keep the local humidity high, without getting the actual piece too wet. Just enough water so that it will be gone by the end of the day, and if sphag, not enough so that it is wet, but maybe a tiny bit more than totally crunchy. Sphag may be the least preferred because of the wetness problem, but with care, it works very well.

I have several in ICU right now. :p
I'll try to post pics later.

And BTW, maybe you're thinking of Mark? or Kev?
Carolyn

You might do something to keep it from rolling.

Hey---if this grows it will always be your very special plant-like finding some wounded dying animal in the forest, nursing it back to health, and having it save your life some day---or maybe just getting awarded-- listen to Ben and Carolyn--except don't water, do put some sphagnum on the bottom of the pot so the roots can grow into them but as Ben says let the plantlet use the bulb for all its worth before you start watering---I don't think you're thinking of me with a piddly 800 ctsm plants-I've got over 1000-can anyone say obsession--I'm so glad to be here with the rest of you sicko's-I really am

Ah, it was you, Mark. And I didn't see your post from May 4 till now. Yes, it'll be my special plant and will "save" my confidence. Better than taking in a stray kitten. :)

Here's the latest. Yes, Ben, the plant was moved for pix, contrary to your advice, but hopefully, the new roots will help it survive. Otherwise, the pot and the plant haven't moved.

{{gwi:171729}}

Where it lives - in the clay pot in the front row:

{{gwi:171730}}

What would y'all advise next, if anything? The mother bulb isn't totally shriveled yet.

Ben, if the roots attach to the bottom of the pot, how does that play out? At some point, do you put sphag in the bottom? (All mine that are thriving have grown well in sphag.)

Richard, because of the shape of the original growth, it hasn't rolled around.

Carolyn, I tried the on-top-of-sphag twice, with no success, although the Cyc the cats dragged around, which you saw, was truly pitiful. :) Sorry some of yours are needing extra help.

Thanks lots, Whitecat8

Well, and the saga continues, there is still life and that is a good thing. Place a few strands of moist sphag to barely come in contact with the roots but not the ends of the bud piece and provide some moisture for the roots. This will also keep the roots from sticking to the pot. I have also placed a layer of gravel or moist seedling mix in a small pot to accomplish the same thing, with small plants recuperating. The roots will seek moisture and dive into the media, while the piece of bulb will stay on top and dry.

Thanks, Ben.

If the roots grow into the moist medium, how do you transition the little one to a "regular" pot and regular amount of medium?

WC8

Listen to ben--his advise is solid--don't worry about moving it--as the roots grow just add more sp. to the root ball and just keep it moist
more pics as the recovery continues
mark