As long as the phal got about 6 weeks of temperature differentials, it should give you a spike, assuming everything else in your culture is ok. Conventional wisdom holds that its 15F difference that does the trick, so you might have brought them in a bit too soon (they can take it down to about 50, though I let mine get down to a degree or two above freezing...remember though that its the differential itself, not the fact that its getting cold). The spike doesn't have to show, but my experience holds that the spike will generally show pretty damn soon after its requirements have been fullfilled. I think though that if its one of the fall/winter blooming white/pinks, you might have another few weeks to a month to wait before spikes typically show up? not really sure, so I won't own that statement, but something to keep in mind.

Thanks terpguy! I know, I had planned to keep everyone out longer but living up on a mountain we've gotten down to around 37 degrees or so 4 times in september. The next 10 days daytime temps are supposed to be low 50's to mid 60's (except for tomorrow it's supposed to go to 70 but haven't seen that in weeks so I'll believe it if I see it) nighttime temps between 39 to 48.

Between the temps and the dampness (humidity is no issue this year) I know I'm chickening out. If this wasn't my first year I'm sure I'd be braver. That's why I'm trying the window for the phals.

These orchids are still being brought in and out when it goes down to 50 at night, can they take cooler than 50?

Brassolaeliocattleya Ann Cleo Stars and Stripes
Brassocattleya Little Marmaid
Onc. Ampliatum
Oncidium Sharry Baby
Encyclia
2 dendrobium phal type NOIDS
Cymbidium Little Black Sambo

To give them more time I'll keep the phals in the window with it open like I've been for another week or two to see if anyone else spikes. I'll continue putting the orchids listed above out during the day and bringing them in when it hits 50 or as low as suggested at night to give them a little more time.

Forgot - these are all box store NOID phals, mostly versions of white with a few pinks and yellows.

Cymbidium can stay out to near-frost, and in fact will bloom better if left out.

Encyclia-- many of them, tho not all, are warm growers. Without knowing more, bring it inside.

Oncids I have left those out to 40F.

The catts-- these have differing amounts of cold-resistance, depending on ancestry. eg many Laelias are quite cold resistant. So it's up to you whether to risk or not. I'm a risk taker, and have left catts that had lots of Laelia in them out to a little below 40 with no harm. But it's your call-- a few catt species need warmth.

Thanks mehitabel for the temps. I'm going to follow your temp suggestions and bring these in and out for as long as I can. Decided I'll take the risk, not only will it buy me more window time for the phals, if I lose any it will give me the learning experience and I can buy more :)

You don't have to play the in and out game. Thats making too much work for yourself. Being that its your first time wintering your plants, you'd do fine to leave them out until the first night it gets below 50F. Bring them in permenantly at that point. Don't know where in PA you are, but i looked at the weather for philly and if its anything like your weather, it looks like you're sitting pretty so far. Perfect temps to help with spike inititation: 70+ days, low 50 nights. Couple nights of 48/49F lows are in the 10 day forecast, but I wouldn't be concerned about those. Your plants will ride those out just fine, and since there are more low 50's coming it'd e worth it to leave them where they are. Check the weather for your specific area for more accurate information since your area may get colder than philly.

As mehitable said, The cymbidium will need to be left out longer in order to get blooms. They like temp swings of 30F in order to initiate spikes.

So sorry, "PA" is very vague. I'm above the Scranton area up in the mountains, about 125 miles north of Philadelphia. It's the little corner of Northeast PA that is zone 5. Binghamton, NY is close to me. The next 10 days here are going to be 60's during the day and 40's at night. It's a bit cooler than Philly. I would definately trade the amount of snow we get with Philly :) Yes, in and out is definately a pain in the butt. I know tho I'll kick myself come spring if there are no blooms!

Hi angeleyedcat,
Re: Oncidium ampliatum, aka Chelyorchis ampliata, I recommend bringing this Oncidium species indoors now. It is from lowland areas in the tropical Americas.

This is the only plant in your list with which I am familiar.

Good Luck!

--Stitz--

Hi Stitz! A new name for that one, it definately doesn't look or act like any of my other oncidiums at all, am rearching Chelyorchis ampliata (looks pretty much like it), thanks! I purchased local inexpensive orchids to "learn" from and boy am I learning! I'm amazed at how happy most of them seem to be with our cool wet summer, new growth and pretty good roots. The only two that have new roots but little growth is the Cymbidium, I'm sure it's been way to wet for it this summer, and the unknown Encyclia, I guess it's because there was hardly any sun. Orchids have also amazed me at how tough they really are, especially being taken care of by someone who is learning as she goes along. A lot of my other houseplants are nowhere near that forgiving, such as african violets!

Now the challenge is providing the correct culture this winter. I've got a room with a large south facing window that has been saved for the ones that prefer more sun. Will get some sort of supplemental light if they need it but I want to see how they do first.

You might need a bit of local specific information re. the Cymbidium. It is a primary hybrid between Cym. canaliculatum and Cym. madidum. Both orchids found growing in the Northern Parts of Australia.

It blooms October here (April) there and the information in the above posts may or may not be appropriate for its culture.

Just a rough Cymbidium breakup, there are the Standard types of Cymbidium that need minimum night temps below 20C in summer otherwise they bloom poorly in winter, early spring.

The "warmth tolerant types " developed in Florida and other places to get past this summer night coolness hurdle.

Chinese terrestrial types that only god can grow. Lol.

And Others such as the orchid in question.

At least it's not in the "god" category and "other" instead :D You made my afternoon. I just had to pick up the orchid that would be a challenge :) and agree, there probably isn't much right or appropriate for its culture here. The "general info" I've been able to get about it so far is it needs a bit of water and a high level of filtered sunlight during active growth - well, it's had a lot of rain (to the point I was bringing it in to dry often) but the sun wasn't very cooperative this year. Give it a 30 degree temp swing, down to 40 in fall. No water from mid october until spring growth? All year it needs warm days, cool nights. House in the winter is generally around 70 day/night. It does get quite cold here for several months so in a window would be the only temp difference I could give it. Does any of this sound right or possibly hopeful?

I should hopefully be able to eventually make the other orchids happy and bloom but the Cymbidium and the Encyclia will probably be given away free next spring (hopefully they live) to someone who would be better able to grow them. I would like to give them a shot this winter, hopefully they will make it. If not, I'll know what not to buy in the future. Thanks!

I'm not saying that you cannot grow the Cymbidium, all i'm saying is that it is different to the Cymbidiums that are a feature of the winter/early spring shows here. The last show of the season in three weeks time will feature that orchid (i hope) and some close relations.

As for bringing them in and taking them out...only the real orchid growers in the frozen north do that. I leave everything out all year even though there will be a couple of nights in winter that get down to less 5C. But the following day will usually be clear and sunny and the temperature will lift.

Perhaps there is too much emphasis on the lows and not enough on the day highs in these discussions?????

Sometimes just little things can improve culture , for example i'm just about to move my very few standard type Cyms to their summer quarters next to the rainwater tank, the cooling effect on summer nights seems to help.

As for Phals my collection spends the whole year indoors. Outside here is death to them at any time of year.