Renee:

I'm a great fan of brillianize too, and while it will fill the sratches a bit, it won't remove them. Only a buffing compound can do that, and that's the last thing we should use on a UV coated surface. Nevertheless, the brillianize will leave a protective film on the surface and if any scratches do cut through the UV coating, the polish helps to seal the raw polycarb against the elements, rather like wax on a car.

It's the price we pay for polycarb instead of glass and according to Kyle, small surface scratches are pretty much to be expected and as long as they don't penetrate into the cells, they won't compromise the integrity of the panels.

If there is any home use product that will restore a UV coating, I'm not aware of it, but if there is, perhaps someone will come along and lead us to it.

So: what is your shadecloth mounting plan? I have some notions about mounting the shadecloth sans ropes too, and as we have the same GH, more or less, I'm interested in learning what you came up with.

Well, I have the home-attached curved eave.
right now I have eye bolts at the top beam of the greenhouse. I threaded the rope through the eye-holes on the shade cloth and then secure it to the top of the greenhouse by passing the rope through the eye bolts on the top beam. Then I simply secure the shade cloth bottom w/ bricks attached to the rope.

So, right now the shade cloth is resting on the greenhouse. I think that next spring I will buy pvc tubing (or some long, thin wood) and will put that the entire length of the greenhouse, where the bend is, where the shade cloth seems to rub most on the poly. The metal ribs of the greenhouse will hold the pvc above the poly. and this in turn will hold the shade cloth out above the polycarbonate. I think I will hold the shade cloth on the pvc tubing by drilling a hole in the pvc and then zip-tying the cloth on the pipe through the hole. Or maybe if I find some long, thin, wood molding I will use that. I assume the pvc pipe would be better, as it is wider and would hold the shade cloth up higher. I may decide to put pvc pipes on the top, middle and end of the shade to hold it above the entire greenhouse, although the top portion of the shade, doesn't really touch the greenhouse now.

I would still have rope holding the shade cloth down but it would at least be suspended above the polycarbonate and I think this would work. My shade cloth is a little thinner than my greenhouse because my greenhouse is actually 8ft6in and the finished aluminet shades only seem to come in exact feet, so my shade is only 8 feet wide.

I like the idea of the pvc tubing and read a post here from a man who used it as a mount for his shadecloth, with excellent results.

But instead of wood, you may want to look at vinyl exterior trim moulding. You could get a longer piece of all vinyl brickmould, cut it to fit the exact length of your GH frame, and if I recall, your's is also white painted, so it would match, never need panting and never rot.

My notion was to insert long, 1/4 SS carriage bolts through the brickmould and hold them inside with nuts.

But I still haven't decided what to use to hold the shadecloth to the brickmould, and never thought about the shadecloth rubbing the polycarb on the curve, so you have given me some school for thought. It does seem a shame to ruin the look of that curve though.

Wasn't it that lovely flowing, unbroken line that led us both into buying the curved eave in the first place?

So much for asthetics over practicallity. (Sigh)

oh, I did like the curved eave because of the look, however I thought the snow would fall off the curved eave greenhouse better than the straight eave. Also there is one less joint in the curved eave!!

I have never looked at vinyl siding before. I will have to take a peak. I think that would be lighter than the pvc.