I found this post by Kimmsr and I agree 100% since I had the same experience:

Posted by kimmsr 4a/5b-MI (My Page) on Sun, Nov 21, 10
"Some years ago, because I was told peat moss would lower the soils pH, I worked 3.8 cubic feet of peat moss into a 4 x 4 planting bed with a soil pH of 5.7 with the intent of planting blueberries there. The following spring a soil test told me the soils pH now was 7.2. Most allof the commercial blueberrie growers around here use either sulfur or aluminum sulfate to keep the soils pH low enough."

I want to thank Kimmsr for helping many folks with their gardens. Last year I put tons of peat moss into William Shakespeare rose's planting hole. He was dark green. Six months later, he's chlorotic (yellowish) from my alkaline tap water (pH of 8). So I had to put sulfur plus acid fertilizer to green up that rose.

The same thing happened to MiracleGro potting soil with initial pH of 6.5. I measure that peat-moss-rich potting soil after 1 month of watering with tap water. Its pH is neutral at 7. There's a University of Illinois research that showed leaves are initially acidic, but once fully composted, become alkaline. The same goes with alfalfa meal.

Kimmsr +1: Don't use peat moss.
Kimmsr -1: Don't use sand.

=?

"Smooth Operator from Berryville"- glad to meet you.

Mackel

One item about sand.
Here many use crushed granite sand in construction because it has jagged edges giving it a "clinging" nature.

Some used washed gravel pit sand but the two items, besides color, have very different natures in how they act- react.

Crushed granite is great, it just costs a lot more. If you have a huge area,how can one afford it, but crushed granite is better then sand. Big grained sand is also good, I have small grain sand, and it's terrible. But, I don't have clay soil, I just like big grained sand and crushed granite in planters. I can mix it in the compost the effects are positive. Small grain sand is what you want to avoid.

Can I just broadcast this builders sand onto my bermuda lawn and have it work itself into the clay or do I have to till it in?

Also, what's "band-size"?

For myself, I like both sand and local peat moss TOGETHER. They balance each other. I like the medium coarse sand. I really don't like the idea of rocks in the soil. In my opinion just sand added is too dry.

Of course, adding the regular organic matter yearly is necessary. Sand and peat moss are not added for nutrients.

I agree with Wayne's idea of BOTH coarse sand and peat moss - plus any organic matter (leaves, grass clippings), and woodchips from horse manure. Peat moss is good to break up hard clay INITIALLY, but got compressed later.

We had a bumper crop of tomatoe one year when we rototille grass clippings in the spring into the soil.

As to jrmckins questions about "band-size" refers to the size of pot that tomato plants come in, very small size.

As to putting sand on bermuda lawn. I don't know. My neighbor dumped a load of dirt mixed with horse manure ON TOP of his existing lawn, then sow grass seeds. He has the deepest green lawn in the neighborhood.

S: "I agree with Wayne's idea"... "peatmoss is good"... "but got compressed later"...

M: "Hey Rufus, I sware I saw a squirrel do the moondance..."

S: +1

M: +1

Cornell, the University of Illinois, the University of Wisconsin, the University of Washington, the University of
North Carolina,and many others all will tell you that to make much difference in clay soils by adding sand you will need to add between 45 to 75 percent by volume, a lot of sand, or around 25 cubic yards of sand in a 500 square foot garden.
6 to 8 percent organic matter in that same soil will do much more, and for less cost even if all you pay for is trucking in the sand. For many people organic matter can be obtained for free so there is no good reason to spend money on peat moss which is a non renewable resource.

Actually, there are clay soils and then there are clay soils. Some have more silt and sand already and some are very clayey. I don't think I would make too universal a statement about adding sand without qualifying some things. I have added about 30 to 35% sand to clay loam and it is very loose, but without sufficient organic matter, it would be too dry. So, I NEVER, NEVER add just sand. I do believe that too fine of a sand might not be as good as a more medium/coarse sand to loosen clayey soils.

Both Kimmsr and Wayne have valid points. My best result in breaking up clay was when we rototille fresh grass into the soil early spring, with a bumper crop of tomatoe. My second best result was when we used A HUGE PILE OF COARSE SAND.

Someone mentioned using fine pine mulch to break up clay. Great idea! Walmart sells them for $2.88 per bag. We rototilled them into the soil, it was nice and fluffy. For the same result would take 10 times the amount of sand.

I looked at the ingredients on the professional potting soil made by Ball Corp. for their annual flowers: 40 to 50% composted FINE pine parks, peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, lime, and gypsum. This soil mixture yields better result for my roses than green-bag MiracleGro potting soil, and Organic MiracleGro potting soil (brown bag).

The 40% Composted pine mulch potting soil is much lighter, fluffier, holds water longer, and I don't have to water pots everyday in hot summer.