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oneisenough

bur oak leaf damage - help!

oneisenough
9 years ago

We planted this whip early June 1213 as a ten-year tree for my girl's 10th bday. But we've had significant leaf damage both summers now and frankly the tree just looks awful. I see gorgeous bur oak and other white oak of all ages in Denver that have thick, deep green leaves and I can't figure out what the deal is with ours. Why such thin, wimpy leaves?

It's about 6 or 7 feet tall now and is watered with the yard. We have had some hail that may account for some of the damage. But at this point it's hard to tell that it's even an oak.

Any suggestions? Should I replace this specimen? Did I plant it incorrectly?

Comments (9)

  • hairmetal4ever
    9 years ago

    If it's just one year in the ground, the "wimpy ness" could be that it is still recovering from transplanting.

    Are you watering it properly?

    The other damage could be the hail, or several bugs.

  • hortster
    9 years ago

    My first thought was hail, too. Looks like a couple of the leaves have been torn.

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    9 years ago

    looks mechanical to me... hail ...

    there is nothing to do about it all ...

    but to water it properly ... and i am not sure lawn watering is good enough ...

    ken

  • oneisenough
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Last year after transplant it got extra water. Watered a bit during winter because it's so dry here. Now it's getting watered with the lawn - once every three days for 15-20 minutes.

    We've had hail damage so I think that accounts for some of the tattering. But I'm wondering why the leaves seem so thin and pale to make them so susceptible to damage. The other white oak in our community have deep green, thick leaves. Does it look chlorotic to you? I chose bur oak because I had read it is adaptable to different soil types and they seem to do so well here.

  • oneisenough
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Just wanting to bump to get feedback re: Chlorosis......

    Does it look chlorotic? If yes, will it outgrow it once better established?

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    9 years ago

    Oneisenough, can you post a picture of the whole tree and one of where the trunk meets the ground? My bet is transplant shock is making everything worse. Are other bur oaks on your street chlorotic when mature? If not I bet yours will establish and grow out of it.

    FWIW, this is a terrible summer for pin oaks here. You'd think half the ones sold were yellow leafed cultivars lol.

    How big of a transplant was the whip? At three foot tall a gallon of water every three days in my clay was enough for my trees. By the time my metasequoia was twenty five foot tall it needed eight hours of full sprinklering every three days to pull through a drought.

  • oneisenough
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Our neighborhood is overrun with squirrels and they nibbled at the trunk before we could get it covered. Behind trunk is a bamboo support. When planted we knew not to create a volcano or bury the flare. I don't recall if it was root-bound when we got it but I'm typically pretty careful to tease apart roots to try to prevent the tree from strangling. We usually dig a hole and fill it up with water and put the tree down into it and then backfill. And we gave it regular, long waterings all summer last year and even some in winter because that's our driest season.

  • oneisenough
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    It's about 7 feet tall.

  • oneisenough
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I can't find a single leaf without some kind of damage.