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miyami

Citrus foot rot disease ???

miyami
10 years ago

Hello everybody.
I have planted a Eureka lemon tree about three years ago and just discovered that the tree has peeled its entire bark on one half side of the root part of the graft.
Asking Mr. Google pointed me in the direction of a viral infection, but I am not sure.

The tree itself did not produce new leaves this spring, but flowered ok. Although the leaves are somehow yellowish.
Attached are some photos:
Image 4 shows the intact side of the tree, the black material is a rubber paint to seal of a bark damage, the green marks come from a plastic strip that I used to tie the trunk to a support pole. 5 shows the back, where the bark disappeared, I removed the soil to look for live roots. All roots on this back side are gone. The tree only has viable roots on the healthy side and is somehow a little bit loose.
7 and 8 show the borders of the intact bark.

I am puzzled about a couple things:
What disease is this and can the tree be saved?
Is the bulging above the graft normal for lemon trees?
Is the yellowish color of the leaves normal (strong sunlight here in southern California)?

I would really love to save this tree, but am not sure, if the best way to go would probably be to replace it, since this damage will severely slow down future growth.

Thanks very much for your help,

miyami

Comments (6)

  • hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
    10 years ago

    miyami, it does look like Gummosis to me, which is Foot Rot caused by Phytophthora. You might be able to save your tree, but this looks pretty extensive, sadly. There are treatments you can apply to the trunk to save the tree. Copper based fungicides applied to the trunk, Ridomil Gold applied to the soil as a soil drench (expensive, and hard to find, as it's commercial, but it is treatment of choice). The feeder roots are at the edge of the canopy, don't worry about what you're seeing by digging around the trunk. No, yellow leaves are not normal and have zero to do with our wonderful California sunshine - that should make your leaves green, not yellow :-) Your tree is seriously underfed, and is in need of regular fertilizing at the canopy edge (dripline) of your tree. Use a good quality citrus fertilizer that contains micronutrients. Also, I can't see because your photos are too little, but it looks? like your tree has algae growing on the trunk? That would make me suspect it is getting hit by sprinkers? If so, this is why you are getting a fungal infection on the trunk. Citrus do not like to get hit by sprinklers. You should be drip watering the tree, with 1 to 3 deep waterings a week, depending upon how hot it is (more in the heat of our summers). And, any grass under the tree should be removed, as grass will compete seriously for nutrients, and cause your tree to become nitrogen-deficient (hence the chlorotic appearance). Water is the culprit here. Too much of it, and in the wrong places.

    Patty S.

    Here is a link that might be useful: UC IPM: Gummosis

  • miyami
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks very much, Patty.

    I had Gummosis on the list, but thought it must be something else, since there was no gum like oozing and the open wood would be darker as I understand it.
    Given your recommendations about expensive treatments, the stadium of the disease, and that the tree is only 3 years old, it sounds like a logical way to go would just replace the tree with a new one ??

    About the fertilizer, I do apply slow release fertilizer and fertilizer spikes, but obviously not frequently enough. My other citrus trees that grow in pots look kind of the same.
    What kind of fertilizer would you suggest, and how often to apply?

    The tree is drip irrigated but has lots of other plants growing bellow it (grass, some vegetables). I guess I have to change that too.

    Could this whole over watering also be caused by not well draining soil, and are there any tricks to mitigate this???

    Miyami

  • hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
    10 years ago

    Ditch the fertilizer spikes, they really don't work. Fertilize 4 time a year with a good quality citrus fertilizer that contains micros as well as the macros (NPK). And yes, this could be caused by your soil. If you have clay soil, that does not drain well, you're going to have to adjust your watering so that your tree has time to dry out a bit. From your photos, the soil looks very wet, but can't tell for sure. Usually, if you've got clay soil, it is recommended to plant citrus in an elevated manner, on a mound, to assist with drainage, and then make sure you don't over water. My concern is how badly damaged the cambium layer might be on that side of the tree. If it is badly damaged, then it might be worth replacing the tree. I can't see the location well, because the photo is too small, but I would make sure you've got a nice open area, free from grass and receiving full sun.

    Patty S.

  • miyami
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Hi Patty,

    yes, the soil was pretty wet, since it rained (surprisingly) a week before the photo was taken. The bark is completely gone on the affected side, just bare wood. Is the bulging of the scion at the graft caused by the fact that the tri-foliage orange root stock did not grow anymore after the infection?

    Here is a larger photo of where the tree grows.
    Miyami

  • johnmerr
    10 years ago

    Well, you're not helping it any by leaving so much mature fruit on the tree. To my semi-trained eye, it looks almost like critter damage, as if something ate away the bark.
    Anyway, I don't like the tree; and if it were mine, I would replace it. The imbalance/overgrowth of the scion relative to the rootstock indicates serious problems. Of course, if it were my Eureka, it would be replaced by a Meyer; once you experience the Meyer, suddenly no other lemon is good enough for you.

  • jean001a
    10 years ago

    My thought is graft failure.