Since your current circuit meets the minimum requirement, I would start with that. If the range works fine, no worries. If the breaker keeps popping, then call out the electrician to install 50A service to the range.

You will probably have to have a different wire size for 40 amp breaker then you would have for a 50 amp breaker.

I would only go by Frigidares specs. Hate to void that warranty if you cause a fire or other damage..

Hmmm. 240 Vac x 50A = 12 kW. So full listed current would seem to require a 60A breaker and wire ampacity. The thing about induction cooktops, though, is that rarely to never would one run all hobs on full power. This would sooner or later lead to a lot of boilovers or splattering. But it could be done with heating tall pots, and the oven could be turned on full at the same time, so the condition is not impossible.

What are the consequences of 40A wiring. Either one has problems with the breaker opening at inconvenient times, or the wiring gets rather warm. Depending on how the wiring is installed (how compliant the original installer was with the NEC) hot spots could occur without breaker action.

If this unit can actually pull 60A, then I would wire and protect for that current if feasible. 50A should be adequate, but I would want to be very careful that I included all derating factors when choosing wire size (ampacity). Larger wire sizes will have lower resistance, not only staying cooler but also keeping the voltage up at the unit.

kas

Splurge, unless the line is not too hard to access and replace in the future if it doesn't work out (like crawl space or something).

Although. This is a hybrid range which means you're only going to be using two of the burners, ever. You're gonna hate those radiant hobs, but they'll be a super work surface. :)

How much electric does it pull to do nuggets?

Alright, kidding aside, get another estimate. I don't know where you are but I'm in a SF suburb and just got a quote of ~$600 to run a 70 amp service about 150 feet.

If you can't do better, then wait and see. You got the minimum, right?

Thanks everyone for your input. I was sufficiently swayed to do it right. :)

We got another estimate over the phone this morning to do what the first electrician estimated, and it was $250 less.

We also think it isn't necessary to go through the wall (which the first electrician said we had to do) after all. We opened up the new vent hole and could see the existing line is fished over the dropped ceiling.

Plus my husband thinks the line is already 50 amps, so we will only have to change the breaker! (He isn't 100% positive that what he could read on the wire is labeled "6-2G", but pretty sure.)

The electrician is scheduled tomorrow, so I will update. Thanks again.

fori... are you haunting me over here in the appliance forum with those chicken nuggets?! :)

post in the wiring forum because that is where a number of seriously highly informed people hang up.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/wiring/

I was looking at the Electrolux induction and debating between the freestanding and slide-in. THe free standing had a wording similar to that (if I remember correctly) and slide-in "required" a 50 amp. The consensus I got from talking to several installers and electricians was that even those that "require" 50amp run just fine on the 40 amp. My electrician says he's never seen one pop even a 40 amp breaker. Since my wiring was already 50 amp, all I would need was a new breaker if my experience proved to be the exception. He said that would be about $75 to do. I ultimately went with the freestanding that said 40 amp was okay. I've had 3 burners running (2 on power boost and one on medium high) plus 2 ovens running and didn't pop the breaker. So I'm glad I saved the money and tested it out before automatically upgrading.

Thank you very much, cjzimmer!

That's the kind of real cooking experience I was hoping to hear about. :)

If I went over to the wiring forum, someone would probably suggest the appliances forum.

the wiring people know the rules about electricity.

So, no, you are drawing a conclusion based on wishful thinking, to write that someone probably would suggest....

also, you have written a rebuttal instead of posting a thread to see if... And this is a closed-minded approach.

Many people who post their anecdotes are also using wishful thinking.

davidro1...

What's your deal?

Saying my approach is closed-minded is very funny coming from you.

You obviously do not get that your forum policing is neither appreciated or wanted around here.

Still you persist.

Seriously, if you meet the manufacturer's minimum requirement, there is no emergent need for you to do anything else at the outset. You are perfectly fine to test-operate the range on your existing circuit. You can always call the pros from Dover if you find that you are popping the breaker. Also those current draws *MUST* be transients only or Frigidaire would never spec a continuous rating below those values. To do so would be to invite litigious suicide.

Inductive devices are prone to surge currents at startup. Household circuit breakers are built to withstand this for the brief (milliseconds) amounts of time that they normally occur. Since you are talking about an inductive range, that is probably what the max values published in the spec are referring to.

In any case, so long as your existing 40A circuit is in good working order with a functioning breaker there is no reason not to try the range with that first. If there is a problem, the circuit breaker will pop. Period. If so, call the electrician and have him/her install a 50A circuit.

BTW, unless you really know what you are doing and have verified 6AWG COPPER with an in-limits run length and appropriate insulation and number of conductors, please don't just slap a bigger breaker on an existing run. THAT is inviting trouble.

The 50amp circuit is to make sure those chicken nuggets come out right

While the Kenmore induction cooktop doesn't use a neutral, this range might, so 6-2wG might (!) need to be 6-3wG if it isn't actually 6-3wG.

kas

Hi mojavean and kaseki...

Thank you very much for your replies. I appreciate your help.

In my second post I mentioned that I was sufficiently swayed to do things correctly, and an electrician was ALREADY scheduled to come out. (No "magical thinking" involved or necessary.)

So I had a 50 amp breaker installed. The wire is 6-2wG, so I'm not really sure if kaseki's post is something I need to look into or not.

But I may have to look into alternatives. The experience with the electrician was pretty bad (costly), along with a price increase occurring on this range. :(

Thank you again all the same.

PS. to davidro1...

My previous statement was NEITHER a rebuttal or literal. This was the SECOND time you've sent me off to the wiring forum (the first time was not intended helpfully/nicely) ALSO on a question regarding induction ranges (cjzimmer's thread, no less!). My statement was more speculation if "someone" (YOU, probably?) would send me back over here.

And an ANECDOTAL answer CAN be helpful. I personally wouldn't risk it IF cjzimmer had told me a breaker popped even once during cooking, no matter what minimum specs say. Plus the electrician kept trying to talk me out of adding the breaker, so maybe her post explains why.

Like I said, no magical thinking involved or necessary.