Are the coils leaking? I would not put a bandaid your (upstairs) system up at this point with just a new indoor coil (or air handler). If you replace anything, the indoor and outdoor units should be replaced. It's not a smart move to install a R-410A air handler and the outdoor unit later, because it is difficult to remove the incompatible R-22 mineral which cannot be mixed with the POE oil of R-410A.

True that there is a federal energy tax credit of up to $1500 (30% of total installed cost) for qualifying systems AND buyers.

Usually new systems don't "require" new ductwork, but depending on the design and size of your current ductwork (most are undersized), a new system won't perform to its fullest efficiency nor deliever its fullest capacity.

I have no idea what you or the tech is referring to with regards to anti-freeze. The pipes you see (insulated suction line and smaller copper liquid line) carry refrigerant, and the refrigerant doesn't need to be "drained" as the tech suggests.

Doesn't sound like everything he said was bs, even though you may not have liked everything he had to say about your systems, which may very well be in poor shape since as you mentioned, it is true that builders go all cheap (which may be partly why he said what he did about the ductwork).

Let me know if you have any more questions and I'm happy to give my advice. I'm not an HVAC professional, so my opinion isn't biased to sell you anything. I've done enough reading, discussing and watching over the years to have a general knowledge of HVAC, however.

Coils are not made of iron and therefore don't rust. For brown, do you smoke either tobacco or other substances?
There are many "coil cleaners" on the market. Just follow instructions.

I think you are reffering to the tube sheet portion of the coil. I would be supprsed to see ANY 15 y/o air handler that did not have rust on them. I am an HVAC professional and I say get another opinon because I just read some bs lines this guy gave you. A 15 year old resadential system is near the end of it engieered life so either replace all or wait and do it all later with a matched system. As for finding a reputable dealer start with ACCA. Then call AC ditributers they will not recomend someone who does not know what they are doing.

I live in a 53 year old 2 story townhouse. My air handler in the second floor ceiling is original. It works off the chill tower supplying all units, about 100 units. I have no control over whether it puts out heat or a/c. Can only monitor temp. Recent a c inspection guy took pics, severe corrosion, but no leakage. Due to age it should probably be totally replaced. I've seen internet pricing of around $2200, but thinking that won't address all the new pipe to run, etc. Company sales guy came and told me it would run me about $15,000!!!!! Sounds quite a bit high to me. Anybody have any thoughts on my situation? Thanks. I'm a 59 year old single female and fear he may be trying to take advantage of perceived female ignorance on the situation.

chilled loop set up is completely different animal. Typically these systems are commercial only set ups and in many cases require different licensing than smaller individual force air systems. This chilled loop system could be a 100 Ton AC system. Not just anyone can work on it.

If there is no leakage, there's no reason to replace it at this point. But if and when the time comes to replace it there is no such thing as comparative pricing for this type of system. Work on these systems requires special knowledge and heavy insurance.

Because of these differences you should post in a new thread. Chilled loop systems are a specialty market.

Can I just cut off my air handler and connection to the chill tower and install my own central a c and heat system unit on my back porch. I have 1200 sq ft to heat and cool so I won't need a large unit. Also, because of the air system here, we don't have to pay for our electricity. Thanks for your quick response on the above already.

Can I just cut off my air handler and connection to the chill tower and install my own central a c and heat system unit on my back porch.

Would make the most sense but, typically, co-op associations won't allow this. Check your CC&Rs.

New question. I need just a plain old wooden access door, 24" x 72", ladder not necessary. I have googled up and down the internet highway and can't find this size. This is for the silly air handler that I referred to previously. Decided to just leave it alone for now but would like to make the access a bit more attractive and easier to get to when I do need to have it worked on. Thanks to anybody who can help me.

Attic access ladder

if you don't want the ladder, you will be forced to make one.

My AC condenser was installed before the requirement to have it secured on a concrete base. I bought the concrete base. Can the condenser be lifted and placed on it without disconnecting the condenser?

Well, yes and no. Most bases now are a synthetic resin/fiberglass material. If the soil under the condenser is flat and level, a competent AC company can probably lift it up 6 inches and slide the base underneath. If the soil needs to be prepared (graded, levelled, flattened), then they'll have to pump the system down, remove the condenser, prepare the soil underneath, lay the base and re-install the condenser on top of it. Not difficult, but not cheap in either case - in the first case, they have to bill in the risk of damaging something when they raise the condenser and in the second case, the have to bill for pumping the system down and re-commissioning it.

Figure ~$400-$600 either way.