No it's not normal. My guess is that you didn't sand well enough, but who knows. Try using new sanding blocks instead of sandpaper...they hold onto the contour of the trim better.

DEFINATELY prime next time.

* Trim & Cabinets should be considered "high-wear" surfaces.
* Sanding AND priming gives the best grip.
* As PG says, it may be a sanding issue, HOWEVER...priming only improves the performance/adhesion of ANY paint, especially on trims.
* Zinssers' own site states that its 123 Latex primer takes 1-2 weeks for full primer adhesion to substrate.
* Make sure to "tack-cloth" wipe all sanding-dust off, AND do a light wipe with paint-thinner b4 priming.
* The whole system will achieve "max-bonding" by a months' time.

Faron

"* The whole system will achieve "max-bonding" by a months' time."

Faron, does that mean that for best results one should wait one month from priming to painting? or that one shouldn't be too aggressive in checking the paint to test for adhesion until a month has passed?

Thanks, paintguy and Faron. A couple of follow up questions.

Is it possible that the paint had not fully cured/adhered since it has only been 2-3 weeks?

How much and how hard should I be sanding? How can I tell if it is deglossed enough? In the next room I've sanded, I've noticed that it's difficult to remove all the gloss. The doors and trim still appear glossy in the reflection of light. If I sand to remove all gloss, I think it begins to reveal the bottom layer of paint or bare wood.

If I'm priming with Zinsser, do I need to wait 1-2 weeks after priming before I paint?

Thanks a lot for your input.

Sorry!
I should've stated that better!

You can topcoat most primers in 2-3 hrs.
Dont' leave a primer unpainted for more than a month. They get too dried-out and brittle.

I should've said...
>>> Once the primer and paint are applied, the adhesion process of all coats takes a while!

You don't need to sand out ALL the gloss.
* Just a moderate "dulling" of the existing sheen.
* It's subjective...but I'd keep sanding if I could easily see a reflection.
* I'd maybe drop down to 100-grit for the 1st pass. Then, a quick 2nd-pass with ~150-grit.
* If you're near a C2 dealer, the C2-SAP (Sandable-Acrylic-Primer) is great for this kinda work. This is neat for REAL fussy applications. After priming, this primer sands nicely for extra-smooth topcoats.

Faron

Faron, thank you so much. I can't tell you what a relief it is to know I'm on the right track now!

Hi, Shortycake

Did you prime with Zisser 123? I might have missed that. It takes a special primer to "neutralize" the oil based paint.

I had that happen when I painted latex over oil on a white dresser - all the paint peeled off in big sheets. At least it was easy to peel off!

Saying that it takes a special primer can be misleading. You do not want people thinking that you can just use a special primer over oil based paint and skip the prep. The prep is always going to be the most important step. There are several types of primers and some are better than others when painting latex over oil. But, there is really no 'neutralizing' going on. There are bonders, stain killers and general purpose primers. You want to use a bonding primer. The primer will stick best to a clean and dull surface. If it's not clean and dull, that is when the paint will peel off in sheets.

Thanks, paintguy. I was at a loss for the right word there. We have had really good luck with the Zisser without sanding the walls. Half of our house was painted with glossy pea soup green when we brought it. Re-painted everything before we moved in. We think the previous owner brought home paint from the Army!

That was in 1992 and we have re-painted since then. Our biggest problem was repairing all the cracks (real plaster) and getting the walls smooth. The worst room got a color wash treatment to camoflage any new cracks.

Clean and dull

Clean and dull

Clean and dull

If using a top quality 100% acrylic latex, painting over a clean, dull alkyd paint is very acceptable and will provide excellent bonding....IF

Clean and dull.

Paints like Aura, Muralo, Pro Classic are products that apply directly over clean and dull alkyd.

The paint chipping is almost always due to a poorly prepped surface. When repainting over alkyd, always wash first, sand second.

Michael

...Not sure here, but I think Michael's leaning towards "clean & dull"!!

Where've ya been old bean??!?!

Thought you semi-retired or something...
;-)

Good to hear from you!

Faron

I'm having the same problem in my master bath...on the vanity. I cleaned, dulled, cleaned again...and my Aura Semi-gloss (Mascarpone) is still peeling. I'm going to scrape it to where it's stuck...sand down, and then I plan to prime.

And I used a sanding block. What's really cheesing me off...I tested the paint and it tested as latex...but I'm thinking it MUST have been alkyd. I'm kicking myself...I ALWAYS prime when I don't know what the base is for certain-sure. Ah well, live and learn.