Thanks for commenting. I thought about that but I don't know how I could make bedroom 2's ensuite into a larger main bathroom without losing my dressing room, as I don't know where else either the main bathroom or the dressing room could go....

Nothing wrong with en suite baths, in fact nobody really wants a four bedroom two bath situation, and particularly not in a new build!. These baths feel like afterthoughts however, simply stealing space from bedrooms, and where are the closets? How many children is one bedroom a guest and so on. Can't read your dimensions, too faint, mark up the plan and re post

My first thought was also where are the closets? I would much rather have my 4 bedrooms all have closets then bathrooms. I don't think all bedrooms need ensuites. Get ride of at least 1 bathroom and then you can do a hall bath and maybe a jack n Jill situation if you must. I live in a 4 bedroom and the master bath and 1 hallway is more then sufficient.

I would make all the bathrooms into closets, except bedroom 2. Make that the bathroom for the hallway, if you need more space take a little more from bedroom two instead of going into your dressing room.

I agree with no ensuite baths except the master. Bedroom 2 bath is open to hallway. We are also building with four up and will have all three of our kids share a bathroom.

It's hard to read the measurements of your rooms. A Western King bed (6'x7') plus night stands can fit on an 11' wall. An Eastern King bed is wider and shorter than a Western. The ensuite seems acceptable. You can have rails on both sides of the "dressing room", but the space in between your hanging clothes racks is what matters. A hanger with clothing on it takes about 18", so you have 18" of clothing on each side. Is it a closet or a dressing room? If you plan to dress inside the closet, you need about 36" of open width. If your "dressing room" is 6' wide, it will work. Anything narrower than that is just a closet. If the plans are still evolving, have a meeting with the architect or contractor to go over measurements before construction begins. Things may look good on paper, but the actual finished room measurements are very important. The owner is the one paying for the design and the construction. You need to know what you are buying and how it will work for your family. Get directly involved in the planning or you may end up with an unpleasant surprise. You must always be available while the construction is going on. You need the actual room measurements to know if your furniture will fit, or to know what size to buy if you will be getting new furniture.

Hi everyone thanks so much for your comments - as the drawing isn't showing my measurements clearly I thought I would write them here:

All sizes are in mm.

Bedroom 1: 5128 (w) X 3290 (l)

Bedroom 1 ensuite: 2003 (w) X 3918 (l)

Bedroom 1 dressing room: 1825 (w) X 2673 (l)

Bedroom 2: 4378 (w) X 3953 (l)

Bedroom 2 ensuite: 2622 (w) X 2673 (l)

Bedroom 3: 3577(w: to ensuite door or 5003 without ensuite in room)X 4265 (l)

Bedroom 3 ensuite: 1326 (w) X 2675 (l)

Bedroom 4: 3869(w) X 3700(l: to ensuite door or 4920 without ensuite in room)

Bedroom 4 ensuite: 1120 (w) X 2675 (l)

Gallery landing from bedroom 3 to bedroom 4 outside walls: 3256 (w)

An idea I have is what if I move bedroom 3 ensuite into the vaulted ceiling part - reducing the vaulted ceiling means that downstairs you walk into the house to ceiling and then the vaulting ceiling appears as you enter further.

Increase bed 2 ensuite slightly to make in main bathroom - take away bedroom 4's ensuite.

Remove door from bedroom 1 dressing room so make it open as you walk into the master suite.

good idea or bad?

Thanks for everyone's time on this!

I would keep the wall on the master wardrobe, but center the door so you have room for bars on both sides and shelves or drawers on the back wall between the rods on the side walls. This does need to be a min. of 6 ft. wide more makes it more gracious. I want a door on my dressing room, but that is because I am not always neat and I do not want to walk by a messy area as I enter my room.

Bedroom 3 if you have a bath over the downstairs entry use a sliding door for access. Vanity counter as you enter on the right then the toilet and a shower at the back. This needs to be a min. of 4' 6" actual interior width (not structural wall center to center). NOTE - you may need to go back to the turned staircase to have the head room needed coming up the stairs if you put the bath in the new location.

Move the door for access to the master bath down at least 24" so you can have a full vanity the same size as the tub. Move the toilet down close to the tub.

Hall bath - put the toilet on the same wall as the tub (hopefully you have the head room) - center the door from the hall - have a long vanity (2 sinks) and a linen closet on the wall opposite the tub and toilet.

I think one en suite with bedroom 3 and rooms 2 & 4 sharing the hall bath works well. The baths in the first drawings were very small.

Bedroom 4 can have a great closet where the bath was in the first drawing, a rail closet. I would use sliding or bifold doors to keep from using too much of the floor space in the room.

Bedroom 3 would have a rail closet on the wall that is next to bedroom 2

Bedroom 2 would have a rail closet on the wall next to bedroom 3

Your landing is small and even with a straight run staircase you still need open access to the bedrooms so the usable hall space is limited. If you don't mind a pony wall instead of an open railing you could build a cabinet 15" deep as high as the pony wall next to the stair case where you have the straight run and put in some linen storage. OR there might be room to tuck a small desk into that area. ( I think you will have to go back to the turned staircase for the head room on the stairs)

You could tuck a small linen closet next to the door going into bedroom 4 in the hall - inside the bedroom have some shelves before you get to the rail closet - to save space make the linen closet a cabinet, not a framed closet.