Why is the wall oven cabinet deeper than the rest of the cabinets? The standard wall oven cabinet is 24" deep just like a standard base cab. If the oven cabinet were flush with the base cabs you wouldn't have a conflict other than opening both drawers at the same time.

watchmelol....Some Designers like to have the countertop die behind a tall gable. As far as I'm concerned though, I leave it up to the customer to decide whether to protrude or die behind. Personally, I'm not a fan of it protruding past.

Lee.... If you don't have the option of moving the line of cabinets down the wall and cutting a new filler, you will probably need to reduce the depth of the wall oven cabinet. Can you post pictures of the 2 walls to give us a better idea what there is to work with?

If you used a Designer, they should make it right by changing either one of the wall cabinets or reducing the depth of the oven cabinet. A good Designer should have caught that opening problem.

Also, you'll need to install some sort of support for the countertop on the wall in the corner. If you are putting in a plastic laminate top, you'll need to be able to screw it down in the back corner and therefore will probably need to temporarily remove that single drawer cabinet next to the wall oven to get to the corner.

One other thought...What is the size of filler on the single drawer cabinet? Will you have enough clearance past the 3 drawer cabinet once the handles are installed? It doesn't look like you have a lot of clearance.

Even with minor adjustments to the oven cabinet the top two drawers aren't going to clear the oven and its handles. I think I could live with the drawers opening as they are (looks like they would open almost all of the way).

I was surprised to see the voided corner next to a base cabinet with a door. I would have gone with a blind corner cabinet which would have addressed the need for counter support.

You might also check whether the corner drawers will clear the perpendicular ones once you put the handles on. I have a drawer and cabinet that have slightly different, shorter, knobs because the DW door wouldn't clear the knobs I picked out for the rest of the kitchen. Oh, and I can't have a DW with a handle because the drawers wouldn't clear it to open.

I was told the oven cabinet depth was their standard so the counter top overhang dies into the side of cabinet and not stick out like Design Loft said. The installers forgot to build a corner support and they are coming back to do that and fit some filler pieces that were not the right length. I don't even like the corner filler pieces but they added them since we added the space around appliances.

I chose to not have a lazy Susan type cabinet. I would rather have the three big drawers and I didn't have quite enough space next to oven to do one of those half moon pull outs.

i believe the filler in corner is standard three inches. The top drawer drawers do clear each other but not by a lot. The rejuvenation pulls I project out more than other pulls I saw at hardware stores. Will post a better view of space.

Can't seem to load individually so I took a screen shot. Cook top and vent hood will be left of window. I was trying to keep things simple but functional for us. Here I thought I would be posting about choosing a perimeter counter not fixing a problem. Seems so obvious now that's it's in....

It looks like there is a framed 2x4 or 2x6 drywall stub between the passageway and the fridge? You could remove that and move everything over 4-6". You'd order a side panel for the cabinetry that would now exposed to the hallway. You'd have to replace the uppers and base to the left of the oven with larger cabinets. If time/money were no object this is what I think I would do (and probably what should have been done from the beginning to get enough space to do the job right).

Pull together the designer and installer to brainstorm options and have them present to you. There may be other ideas that will be come out as people pull out their tape measures and measure down to the 1/8" of an inch.

Thanks everyone. I'm waiting for a call back. Yes, I feel this is a rookie mistake, something that would happen if I made my own plan and ordered them myself. I do think they will fix it at their cost but just trying to figure out what is best. This is only being done once. We hate to have more delays.

Yes, the little wall houses electrical that couldn't be moved. We could have taken the depth back a few inches to avoid the filler to the right of fridge but it was costly for two inches gained.

Are drawer stops possible? Can you limit the opening of drawer at any distance? That's the cheapest /fastest but I just hate that I paid for a flawed design and a cabinet that doesn't work as designed. Not sure how else you can change the drawers. If I made them narrower and added a little cabinet or open lower shelf for cook books etc. and is it fair for me to ask for compensation back on the drawers if they suggest stops on the drawers?

Easiest/cheapest solution is to use shallower drawer guides. In other words, if the current guides are 22", replace them with 20"s or 18"s.

You wont have full extension of drawers, but looks like they will still be usable.

I like Stan's idea. I would further investigate the possibility of moving the electrical to the blank wall which is opposite your refrigerator. There is no way that I would settle for putting stops on the drawers. I was recently in a big box store where I attempted to open a drawer and it ran right into the range oven handle. They should make this perfectly right for you.

If it were your mistake, I would consider the shallower drawer option, but since it isn't, I would request it be fixed by rebuilding the 3 drawer unit slightly narrower at their cost including removal & reinstallation.

When is your counter top being installed? I would contact your counter top company (if separate from Kitchen Co.) and get them to hold off on installation. It may be a bit of an inconvenience but with what you're spending on a new kitchen, it's worth waiting for it to be right. You will be forever haunted with a 'band-aid' fix.

Moving electrical will be an expense you will incur rather than the cabinet company, and it won't be cheap.

How about removing the three-drawer stack and replacing it with a slightly narrower stack and, to the right of that, a tall, narrow cabinet for cookie sheets and cutting boards?

If you went with the drawer stop idea, would you be able to remove the drawers? I'm not sure if they have to be fully extended in order to take out.

Where is the dishwasher. Is it also to the left of the sink and right beside the cook top? If so that's another problem. If it's in the island OK. Too bad you did not come run the plan by the incredibly smart folks here first. It's a costly mistake and they need to pay for it to be done properly and that is part of their education costs.

Is there enough room to move the sink run 3 inches to the left? If so, then you could move the entire run along the sink wall over, and add a filler piece in between the corner and the drawers. you also might consider moving the cabinet to the left of the stove out so it is flush with the oven cabinet.

In a similar situation, we were going to do what cookncarpenter suggested--use 18" Blum glides instead of 21".

Are you having real ventilation over your cooktop? I see electrical but no venting

KL -there is room to move sink run but then it's not centered under window do that's out.

Blubird-this project is creeping along but yes I will have a stainless venthood over the cook top.

Raven-the dishwasher is left of sink. Induction cook top is next to it. I did not want anything in my island, sink or cook top. Husband didn't want it in island so this is where it stayed (in the original location). Other option was in corner but with the door down it would block upper cabinet access. The kitchen opens right into our family room and didn't want to be staring at fridge so we put the ovens and fridge together so they aren't visible from front door and family room. May not be ideal for everyone but I think it will work for us.

Avatar the cabinet next to ovens is for cutting boards and I have more dividers in part of cabinet above ovens. I don't think I will need more.

here is what a guy said that came out. My person that drew plans is on vacation right now. He thinks they can reduce drawer front by 3/4 inch, drawer box stays the same size which hopefully will provide clearance for bottom two drawers. Top drawer will need a stop on it to avoid oven handle. Then the filler piece next to drawer would need to be bigger. What that look weird? I'm not 100% sure that would clear. He told me ovens could be installed and they would still be able to remove drawers. Not exactly sure how.

You did not pay for a cobbled solution to someone else's mistake. I would not be happy with that proposed solution. I would accept a new, smaller cabinet with drawers that open all the way. How much does the oven unit stick out from the drawer cabinet frame? Have you tried to open both sides with the handles held in place? Clearances look tight for both stacks...maybe they will need to make two new cabinets for both drawer stacks.

I could not agree more with this: "You did not pay for a cobbled solution to someone else's mistake." And that is just what I would say to the "designer's" boss.

Yes, I tested the top drawers in each cabinet and they clear each other. Thanks for double checking. If I have them build the entire drawer bank smaller, am I just putting filler in the space or do I make drawers small enough so I can fit a narrow cabinet. The drawers are about 28 inch wide and the cabinet next to oven is 17 inches. Also another idea I saw mentioned was to build out the cabinet flush with wall oven and then the drawer bank would be rebuilt smaller as well. That would move the corner out a few inches. Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like when the counter sticks out past the frame for wall oven.

I'm not sure what the advantage would be of two new narrow cabinets instead of one 25 or 24 inch cab plus filler so the drawers will clear. You said drawers will clear...with handles attached right?

Lee....Before you agree to anything, be sure someone looks at the appliance specs or appliance and find out how far the wall ovens stick out from the face of the oven cabinet. Wall ovens differ in how much sticks out. Just be sure they are not using a 'generic' measurement. If they've already done that, great. Once that has been established, then look at the options presented.

I don't think you should settle for only reducing the drawer front by 3/4" if indeed that would be enough. The cabinet company sounds like they are trying to find the best solution to 'their' problem, not yours. You paid for a properly functioning drawer cabinet, I would ask for that drawer cabinet to be remade to be fully functional for all drawers that will clear the wall oven with a wider filler to accommodate. There's nothing wrong with drawers clearing by 1/4" just as long as they clear. There is one possible draw back by reducing the width of the entire cabinet. If the cabinet company only has standard width cabinets and not able to be customized, the only option available is the next standard width down which might be 3" narrower than present.

As for increasing the depth of cabinet left of wall oven; they only thing I have a concern about if you do that is if your counter top has been made yet or not? If not then it wouldn't matter unless you are going with a post formed plastic laminate with integrated back splash. These are typically 25 1/2" deep and therefore your overhang would differ if you increased that cabinet depth. The only benefit you would get by doing that is not having as wide a filler to the adjoining 3 drawer cabinet. If you decided to do that, the cabinet company will probably just pull that cabinet off the wall to the wall oven face. If you wanted it a different depth, you would be on the hook for the cost.

My ovens and fridge arrive this morning and then I will measure. Counters haven't been ordered yet. I'm going with quartz. I think it would take a lot of filler to clear the oven handle. My time with the guy they sent was brief. The cabinets can be made to accommodate any width. What is the maximum amount of filler where it still looks good? My husband fears the time involved with making any new cabinets. Rantantoo I may have misunderstood you. The top drawer next to oven clears when it opens. As is, all three drawers will not clear the wall oven or drawer below. The bottom drawer does not extend far enough to where it needs to clear the hardware on the wall oven drawer. And you are right there is no advantage to two smaller cabinets, however, I just don't want a ton of filler.....thanks again for all of your help. I just wanted to get this resolved right away so I can move forward with counters but at least I will have two working appliances after this morning. Fingers crossed!

Just to be precise the two top drawers clear each other *** when the drawer pulls are installed? ***

Would you rather have narrower drawers or drawers that don't pull out as far? That's the tradeoff that needed to be made during the design phase (but was overlooked) and now still needs to be made during the install phase.

There's no way I would give up enough width on the drawers to get them to clear the handle on the oven. I'd guess your 28" drawers would become around 24" but you'd have to measure to make sure. Others will have different opinions but I would not want a 4" or 6" filler strip.

As posted above my first choice would have been to move the light switches and the stub wall by the fridge which would give you enough space to fit everything.

Since you don't want to do that to keep budget in check (a perfectly acceptable choice but it is a choice you've made) my next preference would be to reduce the width of the drawers by an inch or two so that the bottom two clear the oven and put an 18" glide on the top drawer so it doesn't run into the oven handle. Putting an 18" glide on all three drawers would be acceptable to me as well.

A kitchen designer can't create three inches where there isn't three inches.

Drawers and hardware smacking into stuff is an absolute rookie mistake. The person who made it should have to pay. It's tuition.

Personnaly, I would much prefer to have the sink not centered and have full width, full depth drawers that function properly.

How wide is your sink and how wide is your sink base?

That was my thought as well cpartist Can you swap out your sink cabinet for a more narrow version then move the cabinet over enough to clear the ranges and add filler on the right side? The sink could still be centered under the window but that would mean adding more filler on the left of the more narrow sink cabinet.

Stan, thanks for your feedback. To be clear with handles held in place the top drawers clear each other. :) You have reinforced what I already felt but didn't know if I was just being too particular. I don't like the filler and four inches would just make it more noticeable to me. Agreed, The best option to be done originally was take out the short wall by fridge if I could have moved the electrical.

Swapping out the 36 in cabinet for something smaller could work but then I would have filler on only one side of sink and wider filler in corner and that just seems like it wouldn't look good....but it would solve problem.

Thank you everyone for the feedback and ideas. I did get my new Bosch wall ovens and refrigerator. Thank goodness the fridge doors clear oven handle and wall. I wasn't too confident after the drawer mishap.