Additional questions/comments:

1. I live in the metro Washington, DC area. Worst winter temps typically in Jan/Feb for 1-2 weeks at a time around 10-15 degrees F with wind chill. Hot, humid summers.

2. Our house is a block and brick home built in the early '60s. Currently basement is unfinished - we can see the concrete block walls. Three (almost) sides of basement under ground, fourth side is walk-out.

3. Currently basement not framed. Understand this needs to be done prior to insulation, along with electrical and any additional plumbing we may need. Correct?

4. Am looking to insulate the walls. First quote is for R-21 faced insulation (Owens Corning). Is this good/too high/low R-value? We have a geothermal HVAC, which heats/cools the basement and 1st floor and it cannot keep up on coldest days (<25 degrees F).

5. Also thinking of insulating ceilings. Sound-proofing would be a nice extra. A good idea? Can see wood sub-floor currently, with copper pipes and HVAC. Quote is for R-30 Owens Corning Batts Insulation. Good or other recommendation?

Thanks so much :-)

OwensCorning made some basement insulated / cloth panels but I don't know if that's still around. You really need to cover insulation with some sort of wall surface for fire issues. I did my basement in 3 1/2" batts in the Reston area and it worked OK.

You need to frame the walls prior to insulating because the insulation needs the framing. It's fairly easy to frame a wall inside a block foundation. I had poured concrete, but it's pretty much the same. While it's customary to run the electrical and plumbing first, it's not that big of a deal with batt insulation to do it after.

I've got serious doubts about whoever sized your heat pump (or the drastic lack of insulation above). My geothermal units have no problem keeping up in the single digits.

Fiberglass insulation does little for sound insulation. There are some things you can do (accoustic drywall, special mounting, etc...) that may help but it would depend on what you see as a problem.