That makes sense. Our old house had it. Hmmmm. I will definitely bring it up to my builder. Thank you.

I would not be surprised to see water damage to the shearing or framing after 2 years.

I don’t think it has anything to do with the guttering (although Todd is right about the kick-out). If you don’t see water streaking on the interior of the glass, my guess is that you have rain going around the IG unit because the seal where the exterior glass surface meets the frame has been compromised. If I’m correct, you can seal the perimeter of the glass with a small bead of clear silicone where the glass meets the window frame. This will have to be repeated every couple of years, but it will stop the leak.

Thanks so much for commenting. Really appreciate it.

That makes sense because only evidence of any water anywhere is that pool on the center of the interior sill. I am now worried about that kick thing. There is some copper flashing that is flush against the gutter that you can kinda see in one of my pics, but I’m guessing that’s not all I need. I just can’t believe how much water pooled on the sill and never had this happen before.

Is there another way to fix it though? Maybe replace a piece? Prob not going to put silicone around a huge picture window every couple years. I can’t imagine doing that on a new build. I would assume they would have to replace something or maybe even the entire window. That would suck bc I bet it would cause interior finishes to have to be redone. Ugh Window is trimmed out in paneling. Windows are under warranty.

Yes it could be coming in as Ultra describes but you really want to treat the cause not keep reassuring the symptom. If it getting in there it will eventually get other places. Sealing the frame to glass is just a band aid fix IMO.

That big a window, my guess is the glazing bead.

Are there any weep holes on the exterior side of the window? Are they plugged or caulked over?

Windows are not 100% waterproof and will leak water, they are designed to route water to the exterior through weep holes , and sloped sills. If They are plugged or not installed right ,have faulty parts or take on more water than designed they will leak.

These are so helpful. Thank you so much. I will let you what they find and bring all these points up.

Not sure if you can zoom in. I found a spot on the exterior where cross bar popped away from the window. There is now a small open space between the exterior bar and the glass. (These true divided windows also thought I should mention). Not sure if this could be the cause of water getting in. You can see space/hole in corner

Actual True Divided Light or Simulated Divided Lite? Were that really TDL I can not see how that would happen without the glass having broken? And if SDL It would not effect the water tightness of the window.

Looks like SDL’s to me. That’s not the source of the leak. Can you post up some pictures of the bottom and top of the window from the exterior? As WoW said, sometimes picture windows are installed upside down and that should be ruled out first.

Not upside down because the sticker is in lower right corner like rest of windows in home. Ill post additional exterior pics ...

I would not trust just a sticker to determine of the window is installed in the proper orientation.

So the water is definitely coming in between the larger and smaller piece of wood frame. No water between glass. It’s literally pooling from between the wood frames that that like under the window from the left and then making its way to the middle.

Did you watch when it when it rained?

The water could be coming in f rom somewhere else and making to the window.

It still should shed the water if they flashed it correctly less it’s being overburdened

I did watch and it literally just came in through the bottom. I do think too much water is coming from the above gutter too though but I wouldn’t think that much water could get in if something wasn’t broken with then window. There was no water in the panes or spacer. It literally came in through the area I drew on pic below.

was water coming over or Past the gutter?

The Nail fins on the bottom of windows are typically not sealed to let water out but if you got excess water directed to that area it would allow it come in. If the Framing wasn’t sloped it would make matters worse.

Gutters are currently covered in snow so some water is flowing over the snow covered gutter onto the brick wall that is right next to the window. The gutter height is at the middle of the window though. Not even sure if it’s a contributing factor. Apparently it’s not code for kick outs on brick in Michigan. You can see in pic the gutter and window placement. But—-I have only seen water come through and then pool between those wood pieces on the sill. It is a ton of water coming through though. I have soaked towels. It’s gotta be the window. Right? And if so, how can it be fixed? Caulk?

I would solve the water issue at the gutter. You really can’t have water coming over the gutter at that point. You may have to remove the gutter cover so things don’t over but into the gutter, kick out flashing or a combination of both. My guess is if you remove the covers on that run your problem will be solved. Wouldntbbe surprised to see mold in the walls. Has tour builder responded?

There are no covers are on the gutters, it’s just covered in snow right now. Normally, it is not running over and usually it doesn’t rain in January. It actually isn’t raining hard either, it’s just raining. Plus, no issues for 2 years. So, I guess I’m not sure if it is actually that gutter area causing too much water in the sill or just a broken window somewhere. Thanks for your expertise and helping me try and figure this out. Maybe a Kickout is something I should do regardless? Builder is trying to get the Andersen rep here. It’s been 10 days and today was the worse leakage.

Melt the snow an ice out Of the gutter

Not sure about kick out flashing not being required in Michigan. Building code R 904.2 says that it is. Siding manufacturers often require in their installation instructions as well. your Location is one of the worst spots not to have it.

Right. It is for siding, vinyl, etc. not brick. I will ask builder again about the Kickout for sure so maybe we will install a Kickout to prevent future excessive water spillover...but snow is now melted and rain continues and still leaks, even though not a hard rain and no water over the gutter now. Gutter spill over could be an added issue that filled that spot with water earlier, but i really wouldn’t think it would create sooooo much water inside the house if the window wasn’t defective somewhere. Unless I’m just not understanding how a window should function. It’s not like water was spilling or pouring on window like a hose, it was just some rain.

Who is the manufacturer on the window in this case?

Anderson 400 series

Apparently an Anderson rep is coming to caulk it when the “weather breaks.” Pretty sure they will have to replace the entire window I would think after winter. Can you replace a window during the winter? Or do I have to wait until spring? Will caulking actually stop the leaking?

You can caulk the glazing bead (if that is where the water is coming from as I suspect) and fix the issue.

You can replace the window, without issue, in the winter. No problem there.

If the window is internally glazed (as I suspect and a close up of the exterior and interior where the glass meets the frame will confirm this), this is a glazing bead issue in my estimation.

Can you tell from these pics?

I didn’t notice the redline at point of leakage. If it is coming in there I’d say it is coming through the glazing bead. You could caulk it as a temporary fix or put a piece of tape over it to see if it stops it.

Get me the same picture that you took where you have the red line indicated but on the exterior.

I would have to get a ladder. They came out today and put a caulk around the whole window where window meets the frame. No idea if this will work but I’ll know the next time it rains

That should stop the leak. It’s not the best fix, but I’m betting you won’t see any more water infiltration. The problem is that it will have to be redone from time to time and your warranties will expire leaving you to take care of it.

Was that a final fix or trouble shooting?

No idea. It hasn’t rained yet and they said nothing about doing anything else. Should I request a new window?

Caulking the glazing bead can be a suitable fix, however, if they acknowledge the defect, they should remove the glass and re-glaze the window. If the issue is from the amount of water coming off the roof/gutter intersection, the builder should address that ASAP.

Only way I’ll know is when it rains next

My guess is this is a picture casement?

The gap between the window and Frame should have some type of gasket.

This fix seems more like a out of warranty type fix to me , but it is kind of hard to diagnose without seeing it.

Ok so the Anderson rep came out last time and put a silicone caulk around the big window between the glass and frame. It seemed to work. Today we went from rain and 40 to freezing and 8 degrees. I heard a pop and now I have the leak again. It is in the same area so coming in under the window onto my window wood window sill. The first time it happened was the same situation with rain to freezing temps. Any new ideas what it would be?

I’m the same person as russell63 btw. Sorry to be confusing.

I am guessing the pop you heard was the glass separating from the silicone. While I suggested that fix early on, it was never offered as a permanent remedy, but rather a quick and practical fix that would have to be redone from time to time. With extreme weather, it will have to be repeated more often than during normal conditions.

The only way to fix the window right would be to take the insulated glass unit out of the frame and properly seal the glass back into the frame as it was originally at the factory.

Ok. We just had that silicone put in though a month ago. You think it’s that again? This is so weird. Do you think water is in walls too or just under the window frame?

My opinion hasn’t changed. The water is going around the IG unit, not around the window.

Ok. I really appreciate the feedback. You seem very knowledgeable. It is insane weather right now in Michigan and I am trying to picture what they are going to do to fix the window right now. If your right and Anderson decides to take out the IG unit, is that something that impossible with 0 degree weather? Or does that mean they just order a new window itself? I guess I am just wishing this was all over and I didn’t have any more leaks. At least the rain stopped and it turned to ice for this week. I wonder what people do with water coming in. Do you think water is only coming in the sill area? Or do you think it’s actually in my walls? Thanks for any more thoughts.

They ordered a window today. Will it actually fix it? I just don’t see how or where the water is getting in. It looks perfect from the outside. Chalk looks good, no water between panes... where is it getting in? Behind the brick?

No window ordered. They said a new window wouldn’t fix it. They are pulling trim off inside and caulking. Then, recaulking in the spring on exterior.

Water is coming in behind or through brickthen the flashing (assuming there is some) , the glazing bead or some flaw in the frame itself IMO. If water is coming around the glazed unit it is a secondary problem .

I thought flashing but the consensus is it is not. The Andersen rep believes it is in fact the Window. Unsure where exactly the water is coming in, can’t find it, but taking off all exterior caulk in spring and redoing it. A new window apparently means removing brick and that would not be fun. He assured us that caulking the interior will stop the water right now. Apparently it won’t let the water through somehow. I hope he’s right.