Mauritius? Are you certain that your Mulberry is a variety suitable for fruiting in the tropics.

Morus alba has been naturalized across much of the world and as a primary source of the silk industry, has been extensively cultivated in SE Asia for that purpose. Morus nigra has only a sightly smaller geographical distribution.

Actually black mulberry appears to not be very widely adapted. For instance

It was being offered in North American nurseries by 1771, but is still rare here. In most parts of this continent it is ill-suited. Much of the interior is too cold; much of the Southeast too hot and humid. On the Pacific Coast from B.C. through California it thrives. But few specimens exist.

http://www.arthurleej.com/p-o-m-July09.html

i agree.. we need to ID precisely what tree you have ... we can do that with a few pix ... if you will ...

it is apparent that someone else local grows the plant .... but it doesnt sound like its growing to expectation in regard to fruiting ... so locale might be an issue ...

with trees.. we talk in TREE TIME ... which is counted in decades ... and years at a minimum .... but its definitely not months ... so on some level you just need to be patient ...

e.g. ..... i have mulberry seedlings all over the lot ... and as noted.. it can take up to 10 years.. before they ever fruit ...

ken

Embothium, you are making a reference to US distribution, which is hardly relevant to the OP's situation. Morus nigra has been in cultivation for so long its origins are obscured but it is common throughout much of southwester Asia. According to CABI: " M. nigra is widely cultivated in tropical regions and is speculated to originate from southwestern Asia (Wiersema and Leon, 1999). Grieve (1931) reported it as growing wild in ‘northern Asia Minor, Armenia and the Southern Caucasus region’, and as cultivated throughout Europe, as far north as southern Sweden. Black mulberry has also become seminaturalized in parts of southern Africa and has been planted only to a limited degree in America, mostly on the Pacific coast. Some were planted in the American South early in the 20th century, but did not fare well in the humid summers and colder winters."

There are mulberries ranging from an 80 pound fruit to a long squash looking fruit. The Osage Orange is also a "mulberry". In America if you say mulberry most people think of a red or black berry, soft and juicy that looks like an oversized blackberry. Anisia, you need to identify which variety you have.

I would guess that Mauritius has somewhat similar temperatures as Puerto Rico??

"There are mulberries ranging from an 80 pound fruit to a long squash looking fruit."

Boy, I'd be interested in seeing those, whatever they are!! But I doubt they are mulberries in the sense of the common name 'mulberry' being applied to Morus species, which has an aggregate fruit that seldom exceeds 1 1/2" in length. And weighs far less than 80 pounds........8 ounces is pushing it!!

Other than being a member of the same plant family, the osage orange or Maclura pomifera is not commonly referred to as a mulberry nor is it likely to be commonly grown in Mauritius and is not even particularly edible. I doubt that is in the realm of discussion here.

It's only in the "realm of discussion" to point out the range of possible plants. The op referred to them as fruits, not as berries, so there's a clue there!!!! I repeat my point:

Anisia, you need to identify which variety you have.

Embothium, you are making a reference to US distribution

Yes, that's why I said "for instance". As for "hardly relevant" your except serves primarily to reiterate that successful growth of the plant occurs in certain areas, and not just everywhere. And depends on the records used always being based on instances of true Morus nigra, and not the black-fruited forms of M. alba that are very frequently confused with it.

But mulberries - Morus species - are NOT berries! They are an aggregate fruit like the misnamed strawberry or raspberry. So I don't know what sort of "clue" that wording may provide at all!

When you research the common name "mulberry", virtually ALL references lead one to a species of Morus.

We are talking about the global distribution of Morus nigra. Which according to reputable sources is quite likely as widespread as that of Morus alba. So I fail to understand comments on how well - or not - this species is adapted to the US rather than the tropical areas it is more common to and where the OP resides becomes very relevant.

John, are you talking about the family Moraceae? I'd be surprised if the OP was referring to one of the various members of the Moraceae other than a Morus species since they all have their own common names. I don't think anyone would say Mulberry if they meant Jackfruit, Fig or Breadfruit.

Floral_UK- You may be right. I don't know what they'd refer to this plant that far away. I just had the suspicion that the OP might be referring to something other than we would here. But, then I noticed the reference to fruit. If I were going out to pick blueberries, I wouldn't say to DW: I'm going out to pick blueberry fruits.

The OP is in Mauritius. Quite possibly English is an additional language for her. I don't think the word fruit is significant.

Your probably correct on that. I once translated a phrase to Italian, and then immediately translated their phrase back to English. It didn't come back with the same meaning. But it might get her a better experience here if posters knew what she had. I read this thread last night and did some research, but didn't respond. But today with all the requests on here for a better identification, I decided to emphasize the request for an ID since the first response on this thread.

Thank you all. I'm sorry for unable to identify what kind of Morus I have I'm from Mauritius, we normally call it Mulberry here, I'm not sure if it is white, red or black Mulberry, however the taste is slightly sweet and much more sour or tart like. The mother tree has 2 catkins, male and female, it seems to produce less flowers than other Mulberry trees here which I am waiting for their cuttings to propagate now.

Yes, that's a Mulberry. What species of Morus I can't say. Gardengal has explained various reasons why the parent might not produce fruit. To be honest I would take a new cutting from a tree which you know to be a good bearer. Taking a cutting from a poor fruiter reduces the liklihood of success.

Here I have take some pictures of the mother. I'm unable to focus on the fruit. The taste is sour kind like tart.

Thanks floral Uk. These 3 pictures are from the mother. You can rarely see the fruits and flowers.

Update: I really don't know which Morus so, however I learnt it's a hybrid. I'm finally getting lots of mulberries from the same tree and 2 more Mulberry trees which I have propagated. All are doing amazing.
I'm sorry, I really can't tell the difference between black colored mulberries of Morus Alba and Morus Nigra (black mulberry)

My Mulberry trees and Elderberry shrubs · More Info

My Mulberry trees and Elderberry shrubs · More Info

My Mulberry trees and Elderberry shrubs · More Info

My Mulberry trees and Elderberry shrubs · More Info

My Mulberry trees and Elderberry shrubs · More Info

I'm very curious how you propagated these. There's a lot online about easy ways to do it, but I've read many "yep tried all those and they didn't work" blogs and posts. Any input from your experience would be appreciated!

Hi ruth_mi, I propagated mine only in warm seasons. In summer, normally I just add moist garden soil (mixed with natural compost soil if you can) in a transparent plastic pot with drains. The cutting must be 4 to 6 inches long, which is usually sufficient then slice off the bottom of the cutting on an angle.
Longer cuttings sometimes dry out when placed deep inside the soil.
Now poked 2 inches deep inside the soil, the soil should be slightly moist but not wet. I have water mine only the first 2 days. I placed them indoor near the window for indirect sunlight.
If you don't have a warm season, you can simply put a heating pad. It'll usually root well in 3 months.
Before transplanting outside in direct sunlight, make sure you have many dark colored leaves no young ones. This is a proof that you have strong roots. Also water 3 times daily for the first 2 weeks after transplanting, this will prevent shock (remember this is not overwatering since the roots will get thirsty and will need water for energy!)

Here it's my first experiment and turned out surprisingly excellent. I have accidentally broken a branch from my own Mulberry tree, I just slice off the bit to an angle shaped and poked it directly into my garden soil in a shade area. After 2 months I noticed many leaves and I can also feel the roots in the soil. No need to transplant, it's in a very nice area ❤️ (the 2 attached photos)

Hi ruth_mi, I propagated mine only in warm seasons. In summer, normally I just add moist garden soil (mixed with natural compost soil if you can) in a transparent plastic pot with drains. The cutting must be 4 to 6 inches long, which is usually sufficient then slice off the bottom of the cutting on an angle.
Longer cuttings sometimes dry out when placed deep inside the soil.
Now poked 2 inches deep inside the soil, the soil should be slightly moist but not wet. I have water mine only the first 2 days. I placed them indoor near the window for indirect sunlight.
If you don't have a warm season, you can simply put a heating pad. It'll usually root well in 3 months.
Before transplanting outside in direct sunlight, make sure you have many dark colored leaves no young ones. This is a proof that you have strong roots. Also water 3 times daily for the first 2 weeks after transplanting, this will prevent shock (remember this is not overwatering since the roots will get thirsty and will need water for energy!)

Here it's my first experiment and turned out surprisingly excellent. I have accidentally broken a branch from my own Mulberry tree, I just slice off the bit to an angle shaped and poked it directly into my garden soil in a shade area. After 2 months I noticed many leaves and I can also feel the roots in the soil. No need to transplant, it's in a very nice area ❤️ (the 2 attached photos)

Hi ruth_mi, I propagated mine only in warm seasons. In summer, normally I just add moist garden soil (mixed with natural compost soil if you can) in a transparent plastic pot with drains. The cutting must be 4 to 6 inches long, which is usually sufficient then slice off the bottom of the cutting on an angle.
Longer cuttings sometimes dry out when placed deep inside the soil.
Now poked 2 inches deep inside the soil, the soil should be slightly moist but not wet. I have water mine only the first 2 days. I placed them indoor near the window for indirect sunlight.
If you don't have a warm season, you can simply put a heating pad. It'll usually root well in 3 months.
Before transplanting outside in direct sunlight, make sure you have many dark colored leaves no young ones. This is a proof that you have strong roots. Also water 3 times daily for the first 2 weeks after transplanting, this will prevent shock (remember this is not overwatering since the roots will get thirsty and will need water for energy!)

Here it's my first experiment and turned out surprisingly excellent. I have accidentally broken a branch from my own Mulberry tree, I just slice off the bit to an angle shaped and poked it directly into my garden soil in a shade area. After 2 months I noticed many leaves and I can also feel the roots in the soil. No need to transplant, it's in a very nice area ❤️ (the 2 attached photos)

Anisia, thank you so much for writing that out! I'll give that a try!