Hello! Perhaps a fabricator or supplier will chime in at some point, but you are correct on both counts. It is a natural stone and there are bound to be some places that requires some filling. BUT if there is an unusual amount, then you likely got a subpar piece. If you picked out the stone before purchase, then unfortunately you are likely on the hook for it. But it sounds like you talked to him and perhaps they are fixing it up?

The third and fourth pictures are painful. Did you buy from the same place that Installed?

Yes, same place. Yes, I agree, the installer initially told my husband it was part of the stone. When I saw it, I said no way, that looks like glue. I had no idea that I would have to worry about this, all of the reviews on the company were great and also all the picures of their work that they shared with us was really exceptional. I agree with the prior comment from Kristina, we probably received a sub par slab. The stones were outside and I couldn't really see anything and was not really looking at every inch, as I had no idea quartzite was prone to having these imperfections. I was really more focused on its hardness and ability to resist etching. We decided to go with qaurtzite because marble etches. Anyway, I guess it is what they say about hindsight. I did not do the right research, everything I read online was focused on how hard and durable the stone is. Anyway, the owner is working with us but said they can polish it out. Although I am not sure you can polish out a resin filled pitted area. We do not want a clear coat of epoxy over the entire stone, so really unsure of how this will be resolved. I have asked the owner to come out to look at the counters himself. Hopefully that will help us figure out a path forward. Thanks for your note.

The smaller pits should be able to be filled and buffed, the corner that appears to be a big section of resin will never get better.

If they won’t replace it, get a big discount. However, Jan’s input is pretty spot on. For others lurking, bring pad and paper to stone yard. Write down all the info on end of slab. Bundle#, slab number etc. take photo of it. Get them to pull a couple slabs to look and compare. You have to watch when technician is doing templates. I always get them to tape out cut outs before they cut so I can see if the spots I love about the slab will look great when installed. Believe me a whole slab won’t look at all the same when cut for peripheral counters. Islands easier but there also might be differences from looking horizontally and from behind island and in front of island so make sure you like the orientation. Do as much pre-examining as possible.

If you did not see these flaws when viewing the stone at their yard, I would ask about the possibility that the stone started to disintegrate as they worked on it. If these flaws were there when they showed this stone to you and started to lay out the counters, why didn't they work to exclude them from the final product? Did they see this and ignore it?

Unfortunately your slabs were somewhat porous which is common with many natural stones. However the resin fill from the slab producer should not look this bad. Often this is caused, by storage of slabs outside where they get rain and sun damage. The resin fill shrinked due to extreme temperature fluctuations, or water freezing while inside the fissures. They yellowing of resin is often from too much direct sunlight. FYI, I fabricated and installed my Taj Mahal quartzite Dec. 2019 and have small veins and fissures where the slab producer resin filled, however nothing to your extent.

Here is pic of my Taj, note the resin fill in the vein toward the back which is easier to see in the light shining through. This is a normal resin fill. I am a stone fabricator/ stone dealer over 20 years.

Thanks, here is another picture, I have these all on the side by my other door. I think you are right, the stones are not stored indoors and are exposed to the elements. I had one other question. They placed the seam for the counter right through the middle of the sink, I thought that was probably not a good spot since it will have water constantly hitting it from the faucet.

Literally the best spot IMHO, you have the shortest seam that way, much of it obscured by your faucet. They aren't using elemers glue by the way, the epoxy they use is impervious to water so that is not an issue!

Actually I prefer not to seam in sinks, unless it is an apron/farm sink in which a 8” or so seam is in the back of the sink only. Usually the cabinet in front of the sink is weaker making it more susceptible to “popping”(coming undone). Water does not help either, it will find its way in any tiny hole. Remember, the resin used, usually polyester resin, sometimes acrylic, will shrink as it cures. This is true with all plastics. The molecules are always banging, or going off, however more slowly as time goes on. Many fabricators like seams in the sink because it is easier to match veining in smaller area, and also less likely to break carrying in. Every fabricator has their preference. Most seams I’ve seen in the sink come apart within five years, however not all. And my guess is the fabricator will say it’s homeowners fault. Also the weight of sink pulling down on countertops does not help, particularly if the sink is anchored to the granite(or quartzite), as I prefer to do with stainless steel sinks.

Also in your last pic which is very hazy, that might actually be a quartz deposit and not resin there, hard to see. Usually quartzite is almost a pure white, the bulk of the slab that is usually a beige to grey and every other neat color is from oxidation over long periods of time in the earth.

" Usually the cabinet in front of the sink is weaker making it more susceptible to “popping”(coming undone). Most seams I’ve seen in the sink come apart within five years, however not all. Also the weight of sink pulling down on countertops does not help, particularly if the sink is anchored to the granite(or quartzite), as I prefer to do with stainless steel sinks."

None of the above is true if sinks are strapped instead of clipped in place. Since the cabinet sides are holding the sink up and the sink is now acting as a 9" deep stainless steel truss, the cabinet rail's only function is to oppose the strap's pulling the cabinet sides together.

Clips are junk and leak, plus you can't get the more desirable skinny front rail because there isn't room for clips where they're needed most.

Thanks for the put down Joe! None of what I said is true!? Actually I have only had one sink pull away, from setting a bad anchor several years ago, which I repaired with a new anchor and wood cleat in center of sink. I’m just trying to help the person in this post. Clearly you think you are the authority, so take it away from here boss!

dezedarin: You don't get to take my comments out of context by leaving out my qualifier "...if sinks are strapped instead of clipped in place."

I'm a contractor licensed in two states, I wrote a magazine column on countertop repairs for four consecutive years, and I've replaced hundreds of sinks; most were leaking from clip/wood block installation.

Joe, your qualifier only goes so far as every kitchen is different. Here we are talking about Taj Mahal, which is obvious by your statement you have less experience with. As to your comment about sink mounting, you basically just agreed with me that sinks mounted directly to the countertops alone puts downward strain on the stone. Nobody said it can’t be strapped to help with your seams in sinks. I just don’t do it that way. I have seen so many seams in sinks fail... because they were done wrong. I did say above that not all fail, however there are many installers that don’t take their time to learn or install properly. I do it differently, to claim I do it wrong is a false claim and attack, when all I was doing was giving my opinion which was asked for.

Would you fabricators recommend clients choosing granite over quartzite?

Usually we prefer you to choose granite over quartzite because it’s easier to cut in general. Or better yet engineered quartz surface, which is usually even easier. Personally, I think you should choose what you like, while balancing what you want to spend on said project. Keep in mind the quality of stone can be important too. A good polish, minimal fissures/pit, etc.

Not a fabricator, but a consumer who has used limestone, granite, quartzite, quartz and corian in home remodeling projects. Since limestone, granite and quartzite are natural stones, there can be a wide range in the quality of a certain color/type. They don't all come from the same quarries around the world and some quarries will mine and produce better quality slabs.

Not all Taj Mahal slabs will be full of fissures/pits that are filled, there will be a wide range and you can bet the better looking and "perfect" ones will be sold at a premium.

The solution is to visit several slab yards to see what they have in stock and compare the looks and quality of the slabs available at each place.