Your plan is not good, has a ton of wasted space. Get a new vanity for starters : ) Why the space for the bench? @ 18 x 42. Some work on the plan before the lighting : ) Seems you have space for at least a 48 inch vanity , and sconces. Post an inspo pic of the feel you want.

I know there is alot of space, long story but i didn't want to block a window had the space to work with down there. It's all done, so no changing layout now ;)

I could do a bigger vanity, but I'd have to buy it. I really like the 30" vanity I have now.

I forgot to mention, the space for the bench is because with the sauna, it give people space to move around, sit down, etc. The extra space in the bathroom will be nice.

Sorry to pile on here, but lighting is not where my focus would be. Is this permitted, and has inspection approved the clearance for your electrical panel and sump/ejector access? Electrical panel workspace clearance per NEC is as follows:

It appears your sump and ejector are under stairs. When you need to replace the pumps, and you will, it doesn't look like enough room to maneuver in there.

Don't know where the window is, but my opinion on a space next to a vanity in an assigned nook, if not floating, is "leftover" at best.

I really do just need to focus on lighting. It's too much to type, but yes I have all of those other details figured out and are to code. Yes I have proper clearance for the panel, and yes I have access and plenty space to replace pumps. The drawing isn't totally accurate for the utility closet which isn't even built yet. I just was looking for advice on lighting and vanity placement.

The window is in the shower. If I understand correctly, the ideal location of the vanity would be to place it against the wall as drawn? Maybe one day I will pony up the $$ for a new larger vanity, and I don't see why it couldn't be changed, other than some extra work required to change around the lighting.

Well it's hard to figure lighting if drawings aren't accurate or noted well, and when plans aren't thought out well enough, but "just adequate," I often hear "it's too difficult to change that now," but continuing with all that money and human capital (stress, choosing, scheduling, installing tile, etc etc) eventually leads to regret in "should've done it another way when I had the chance." But maybe you have the perfect layout, so then . . .

Because you have the shower and toilet wing walls creating "darkness," I would consider the vanity lighting as part of the main lighting, on the same switch. So the vanity, shower can, and can in front of the shower all switched together.

The location of vanity depends. Standard toekick, furniture style, or floating? You will have 2.5' of extra space to either fill or make symmetrical.

What kind of lighting and feel of the space do you want? Sconces? Over-vanity style (hollywood lights lol)? General throw of 6" or 4" cans or tighter cones of 3" trims? Ductwork/piping in joist spaces and ceiling height? Dark matte/bright white glossy tile everywhere? That all makes a difference on how many/where.

I did spend months figuring out the layout with several sources of help. It's not perfect, but it's the best we could come up with based on some unique restrictions due to plumbing and some other items.

But to answer some questions, it is what I believe is a furniture style vanity (see pic). If I set it away from the wall I can definitely get some sort of shelving/rack for towels and such that would make it balanced.

I do think the vanity lights on the same switch is a good idea, maybe in series with the main switch so I can at least have the option to turn them off when using the sauna.

When the sauna is in use, I would like the lighting to be relaxing in the bathroom, so everything will be on a dimmer. I really don't know how decide between the options you mentioned with different sizes of cans and sconces.

I currently don't have lights planned IN the shower. Not sure if I should.

Ceiling is 8' and I don't have many restrictions in the joists since I have radiant heat (no ducts). Colors will be fairly neutral, not bright white and not too dark. Probably in the beige tones to go along with the cedar door to the sauna.

I assume this will be used as just the bathroom for the basement as well. If so the lighting should be singly switched for the whole room when just taking a tinkle. So 3-way on/off at main door and 3-way dimmer at sauna door.

It will be used as overflow and an easier bathroom to access from outside instead of trekking through the whole house. The sauna will be switched separately, but I'm not sure what you mean about 3-ways. I don't see the need to have it switched from two locations.

I did hook up some can lights to get a feel, and I'm not sure I like how harsh the light is overhead, and it will also cast a shadow into the shower since the shower ceiling is dropped. Would a pair of sconces on the wall with the bench be sufficient along with the vanity light or sconces?

3-way you said you want to dim lighting for the sauna. So I picture normal usage - switch at door for general room lighting. For sauna usage, same main door switch for general bright light to come in, change clothes, use vanity, then enter sauna - so 3-way dimmer right at sauna door for entry and exit to restore brightness when done.

The temp can light "harshness," that word may mean different things to different people. They may be too big (like 6"). They may not have a recessed baffle, so causes glare. They may have too "blue" a color of 5000K. So more info needed. But you should have a damp or wet rated can in the shower.

Very delayed, but in case anyone is curious, the bathroom turned out wonderful. Still a couple of items to finish like a TP holder and crown molding, but otherwise I love it. Thank you all for the help!