“Don't have a gas range so less concerned about blower capacity.”

This isn’t actually correct. Your cooking will generate the same amount of smoke and grease regardless if you are cooking with gas or induction. Having said that, 600 suffices for most cooking needs. But if you e.g. sear steak a lot, stir fry a lot or similar, you’ll need higher cfms.

The problem with ”minimalist” hoods is that their capture area is poor, and they typically use mesh filters instead of baffle filters. So you would have spent all that money for a hood which by its design isn’t going to be that effective. You don’t say which hood you are talking about, so it’s not possible to advise you on it specifically. If you change your mind about a minimalist look, Wolf does make good canopy-shaped hoods with baffle filters.

@Patricia Colwell Consulting I am looking at this slimmer profile Wolf: https://www.subzero-wolf.com/wolf/range-hood/36-inch-cooktop-wall-hood-black rather than this more bulky Pro style: https://www.subzero-wolf.com/wolf/range-hood/36-inch-pro-wall-chimney-hood

I completely agree - capture is what I'm most focused on. With an induction range, I'd imagine it's a little different than with a gas range (I've used Bluestars and Wolfs and more...)

Wolf provides a "Wolf Design Guide" at their website that one can tour or download. Overlap front-to-back is important as is overlap side-to-side.

For hot oil cooking and meat searing, aim for an actual 90 CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture. This will require yet more rated CFM due to pressure losses in the hood system (includes make up air pressure losses).

"With an induction range, I'd imagine it's a little different than with a gas range"

Are you saying you believe there will be less smoke and grease if you are searing a steak, making hamburgers, sautéing or frying fish, browning chicken on an induction range? Can you please explain how that is - I am sorry, not trying to be rude, but I do not understand how that can be.

A flat hood like the Wolf VW36B that you linked will not have capture area, and will also have the mesh filters that I mentioned in my previous comment. Mesh filters clog quickly with grease, and unless they are cleaned very often, they will impede exhaust because the mesh is coated with grease, and it won't matter how many cfms you have. A baffle filter on a hood will of course also have to be cleaned, but if it is not done so frequently, it will not impede the exhaust power of the hood.

On the induction hob vs. gas burner ventilation question. In my reading, when gas flames are present the steady-state cooking plume velocity is a bit higher and the plume source (from which the plume expands) is a bit wider. However, when searing or wok cooking, the transient plumes from the food dominate and I think it best to design for that condition, while accounting for the limitations of residential hood designs.

We know that a lot of "crimes" can be covered up using the huge reservoir volume of a commercial hood such that the recommended specific flow rates can be those shown in Figure 4 of the Greenheck guide (click to enlarge). With short residential hoods, one wants to provide conditions that accommodate transient plumes by using higher flow rates. This led to my opinion that specific flow rates of around 90 CFM per square foot (CFM/sq. ft. = ft/min; compare column 2 to column 3) would be more suitable for residential use with gas and electric ranges.

Note that "wok" in column 5 is applicable to the 100 kBTUh to 200 kBTUh Asian restaurant burner, and not to the burners/hobs that are likely to be found in the home.

In all cases, parts of plumes that are not overlapped by the hood, or the effective hood determined by side cabinets, walls, and side skirts, will not be immediately captured and will act to deposit grease and moisture on household surfaces.

Decided to go for the Pro Chimney range hood. Will mount 36" or 37" off countertop. It's a good look and should work for our application.