I planted cukes at about the same time. I'm getting some emergence, but not a lot. I was thinking the cool weather of the past few days was responsible. It will be warming tomorrow. Cukes need 70°F or higher for good germination.

Also, I was thinking about giving them oxygen by means of hydrogen peroxide as discussed in a thread on the Hot Peppers forum. That's my latest thing to play with. It ties in with the quote you cited.

Jim

While that info may be correct, cukes are quite sensitive to cold. It could be one or the other, or a double-whammy.

Here in western WA, we've still got one foot stuck in winter. My poor little cukes (started on a heat mat) are shivering badly, and begging for warm coats and hats.

Sue

The discussions on garden uses of Hydrogen Peroxide are quite fascinating. Thanks for the tip!

Here is a link that might be useful: Hydrogen Peroxide

BelgainPup, it is snowing in the Cascades tonight. Happy summer.

Sorry about the snow - and the cold at Sue's. .....here, the heat hit today, in the 90s and... whew, the humidity... Cukes would have loved it, had they shown up.

Jim, did you have a chance to play w/the peroxide yet? Any luck w/more seedlings?

After a couple of days of low temps, and with a forecast of several warm sunny days ahead, I decided to reseed the cukes. The whole oxygen thing has got me thinking though. Could lack of oxygen be the reason that beans don't germinate well when soaked or heavily watered when planting? How wet should soil be when planting? How much should soil be pressed down on seeds?

There is fertile ground (note the pun, ha ha) for some formal experiments here.

Jim

Here is a link that might be useful: A Previous Garden Experiment

**Could lack of oxygen be the reason that beans don't germinate well when soaked or heavily watered when planting? How wet should soil be when planting? How much should soil be pressed down on seeds?**

Jim, I so agree with you, we should question old planting habits that don't yield good results.....

Early winter last year, I planted Austrian Peas intended as a green manure. I just tossed handfuls of peas on prepared ground and tried my best to get them covered in soil, but lots remained exposed. I don't remember if I tossed dry leaves on top. Probably.

Result: excellent germination. Even the peas not covered with dirt germinated.

Another example of 'airy' germination: On 5/31/08, I noticed a healthy bean volunteer growing in a bed of very airy loose litter of unfinished compost topped with leaves. The bean seed had overwintered in the litter. The bean plant was very healthy with dark-green leaves and a very large root system.

Wouldn't it be interesting if we, instead of planting bean seeds in the spring after the last frost, we planted bean seeds (and peas) in the fall (in loose litter) and left it up to the beans (and peas) to germinate whenever they thought the timing was right.

(BTW, my peas are now a thick thicket with lots of flowers and tasty peas.)

I had pea volunteers overwintered from last year start growing over a month ago. Lost them when it finally got dry enough to till. If I could have kept them going I'd probably have ppods by now.

I never thought about the carbon dioxide effect on cucumbers before, but in my 30+ years of experience growing them, I have found, for me, that they grow best in 4-6in raised beds with 2 inches of uncomposted organic matter, such as wood shavings, sawdust, pine needles, shredded leaves, etc. followed by a nice layer of composted manure, and on top, a 1 inch mix of 2 parts sand and 1 part fully composted topsoil. The mix being that it will not hold its shape and crumbles, and will turn dusty if it dries out.

I have tried many other ways, and the above works the best for me.

Also, I have noticed a very huge difference in yield depending upon which direction the rows are laid out and the plants are trained. For me the highest yield is when the rows go Northeast -> Southwest and the vines are trained both Northwest and Southeast. Every other plant going Northwest and the others going Southeast.

Note that this works for me. Your milage may vary. I am in a high elevation with a 6+ month winter with 2-3 weeks of spring before summer hits with 100F+ days.

"high elevation with a 6+ month winter with 2-3 weeks of spring before summer hits with 100F+"

Which state is that, Colorado? Wyoming? Montana?

Thank you all for your responses.

**If I could have kept them going I'd probably have ppods by now.**

Happyday, I just love your humor..... priceless!

Nick, I'm trying your method in a raised bed (framed). I put lean soil on top of a thick layer of leaves and compost (in various stages of decomposition). Though it is not exactly like your ingredients, I thought I'd give your terrific idea a try. Thanks for taking time to post detailed instructions. If the setup works for me, it will be my standard from now on.

Your observations on yield as it relates to row/trellis layout are fascinating. Will keep them in mind for next year.