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gardengalrn

Pre-emergent, weeds and questions

gardengalrn
12 years ago

My biggest problem in the garden last year was weeds, followed by extreme heat/wind and bugs. Seemed like I could fix the last two with water and Sevin dust when necessary. At least make a small difference, I should say. The weeds were an entirely different situation. Millions of them, too many to keep up with with even regular weeding or mulch. If I worked, there might have been 2 or 3 days that went by before I could get serious about picking weeds and they were already beyond help.

Anyway, I had a few thoughts and questions. If I used a pre-emergent (sp?) weed killer would I be able to plant pre-sprouted peas? I soak my peas for a few days and ideally they form that little node on a day I can plant. Does anyone have a recommendation for that type of weed control spray? Also, does anyone have any experience with a weed "burner?" We have one but haven't used it. Thanks!

Comments (6)

  • denninmi
    12 years ago

    If you use a pre-emergent like trifluralin (Preen), you won't be able to plant anything from seed in the ground for several seasons. If you choose to go this route, you will have to transplant everything (about the only thing you can't transplant are many root vegetables). Also, a pre-emergent will cut down but not completely eliminate the weed problem, some will still make it to the point where they can take off and grow.

    The weed torches are good for some things -- mostly very small, soft weeds. The problem with them, in my opinion, is that they are both pretty slow to use, since you have to burn each weed for a decent length of time (varies, of course, from weed to weed), and many plants will regenerate from the root, which is NOT killed by this treatment. I use mine mainly for spot weeding in paths, and to control the weeds that grow in the expansion joints in concrete.

    The best long term solution I have found to this weed issue is black plastic over the entire garden.

  • tracydr
    12 years ago

    Does pre emergent work for Bermuda? How about corn gluten meal?

  • Beeone
    12 years ago

    I use trifluralin in selected parts of the garden for weed control and it works well. It can be applied pre-plant and incorporated or after planting but before seedling emergence and gently raked in or watered in with 1/2" of water. Trifluralin is deactivated by exposure to sunlight so must be worked or watered into the soil within 6-8 hours of application.

    This year I planted beans, potatoes, onions, peas, carrots, and radishes in the area I treated. I also treated the area where I planted my cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, tomatoes, and pepper transplants.

    Planting corn, beets, and squash/melons in treated soil won't work as they are sensitive to the trifluralin.

    It does wonders for reducing the population of annual grasses, lambs quarters, redroot, kochia, and purslane, which make up 99.5% of the weeds in my garden.

  • zzackey
    12 years ago

    I garden so I can eat chemical free veggies. What you guys are doing doesn't sound good to me! I read from the ag center bulletin that the plastic should be clear to kill the weeds or grass. You need to leave it on for several weeks in the heat of the summer. Can you use a tiller there for now?

  • obrionusa
    12 years ago

    I have used it and it does help. However I found putting mulched leaves in between the rows helps more than anything. I would personally wait until the crop you planted was up before I would sprinkle it on. It generally wont last 8-12 weeks. The reason it may not work real well for me is because I didnt know you were to rake it in. I would only use something labeled for vegetable gardens.

  • NancyPlants
    12 years ago

    gardengalrn, I also live in Kansas and I'm an RN.

    I used to fight weeds in our veggie gardens also. I mulched with little benefit no matter how thick I spread it. I then tried laying a layer of newspaper on the soil and covered that with mulch (I use grass clippings and shredded leaves). The first time I didnt use thick enough layers of newspaper. Weeds came back after several weeks. With thicker layers it was effective all summer. By the next spring the mulch and paper had decomposed and were tilled in, benefiting the soil :)

    This year I used newspaper in some areas, brown paper bags in others and cardboard in others. I can honestly say I had a weed free veggie garden :)
    Laying down the newspaper/cardboard is a bit time consuming but well worth it.
    I place the barrier right up to, but not touching the stems of plants. My neighbors give me the leaves they collect in the fall and in the spring I run over them with the mower...using the collection bag...this is spread over the newspaper/cardboard. I'm so happy I have found a way to enjoy my veggies garden and not be overwhelmed with weeds.

    As for Preen...I use that only in flower beds. I sprinkle it after I put a good layer of mulched leaves. It lasts about 3 months. You can successfully plant seeds in the area. There is a long list on the back of the box of seeds that are not effected by the product.

    I just checked my box and green peas are listed as not being effected by Preen. There are a number of other veggies that it is safe to use with as well as grasses, flowers, shrubs, trees, ornamental grasses, etc. Great product...I just choose not to use it on things I'm going to eat.

    With a little preparation you can spend your summer enjoying your garden instead of fighting the weeds :)