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sea_sun88

What are some good orchids to add as my 2nd orchid.

sea_sun88
17 years ago

I have a phal and I had it since February. It is doing pretty good. The last bud opened and now there are 9 pretty orchid blooms. I am thinking of getting another orchid and I want it to have similar care as my phal. Can anyone give me a description and a photograph showing an orchid which would be good to get, and your feed back if you have that orchid. Thanks and I appreciate your help.

Comments (26)

  • highjack
    17 years ago

    Phals and Paphs are perfect companions for each other.

    Brooke

  • terpguy
    17 years ago

    Paphs are good choices. Oncidium is another one. If your growing your phal in a bright enough window you can grow an oncidium also. AKA The Dancing lady orchid.

  • richardol
    17 years ago

    I am going to second a Paph as a good second plant. Oncidium hybrids for later.

    Is size a consideration? Are you growing on a windowsill?

  • mehitabel
    17 years ago

    Check out Norman's Orchids, the phalaenopsis section for many, many wonderful phals in all colors and kinds, many in spike. Odom's has a smaller selection but ships humongous plants, usually in spike if in season.

    IMO, you will learn more (consolidate and expand the knowledge you already have) by getting a second phal.

  • sea_sun88
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thanks so much you guys for your feedback. I will do some research on Paphs,Oncidium. I really like the phal, I keep it in my room near a window but away from drafts. Overall it likes it where it is. My Phal is aproximatly a 2feet long maybe even more, although it bends at the top. So no size really doesnt matter to me. I want to expand my knowledge in orchids because I would love to grow them.

  • howard_a
    17 years ago

    Regardless of what is chosen as the next plant in the collection I think it is a little early to say that the phal 'likes' the conditions that are being provided for it. Maybe they are in fact exemplary but possibly they are not and throwing a little doubt into the equation IMO never hurts. Near a window in most cases is a very bad idea as most windows have trouble keeping up with even so undemanding a species as a phal unaided. 'In' the window, drafts and all is usually the better strategy. Drafts are not deadly as you may have heard except while a plant is in bloom, so for the time your plant is in bloom yes it is prudent to keep it protected but once the blooms are done it should not be coddled if you want it to thrive. This means as much light as possible or maybe more than that.

    I also agree with the advice to add more phals before branching out. Paph's are not really all that similar to phals even in their light requirements. Oncids usually don't like it as warm as phals or paph's. Everything brings its own challenges to the table and if some success is being had with the phals then one could do worse than extend the streak. That said, I believe in growing what one 'likes' not what will grow best for one. So look at the various species and hybrids that are offered and when you come across one that really hits something inside, learn about it and if you make a good faith effort to supply it with what the book or grower suggests you provide then success should be yours.

    H

  • sea_sun88
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    I really appreciate your help. There so much for me to learn about orchids. I think I should wait until my Phal stops blooming and see if I can make it bloom again. Then I will add another Phal and so on.

    {{gwi:160337}}

  • claritamaria
    17 years ago

    I agree with Howard concerning Oncids and Paphs. Paphs may be a bit frustrating as they grow slowly. If there is any trouble it seems like it takes forever for paphs to get back to "good".

    If you become a collector, in time you may feel as if you have bought too many of 1 species and will "outgrow" them. I like to diversify and give it a try if I can come close to conditions.

    Encyclia's aka Epidendrum (some have been reclassified) are quite easy, tolerant and fun. Fragrans, Cochleata and Prismatocarpum are all nice choices. Cochleata is probably the easiest. Cute too, like little bow ties with little green tails or blue ribbons.

    risingpower1 had a stunning photo of a prismatocarpum that threw me into a buying frenzy..RP1? Is that photo still handy?

    They are my whimsical orchids. Sometimes I need a break from the more demanding ones. They are not very expensive either. Oak Hill Gardens has a nice variety at reasonable cost.
    Clara

    Quickie Photo. Bloomed last week and more to come!
    {{gwi:162811}}

  • risingpower1
    17 years ago

    Hm, if you mean the panarica prismatocarpa:

    {{gwi:162813}}

    If we're talking encyclias, maybe it was a chondylobulbon?

    RP1

  • terpguy
    17 years ago

    RP, it used to be encyclia, and thats how a lot of people stateside know it :)

  • claritamaria
    17 years ago

    Thanks Terpguy, could not remember. I have not seen the other classifications at retail level yet. Just Epi and Encyc. Yes! That is indeed the beauty I was referring to RP1; although a different pic. Gorgeous! Thank you

    Clara

  • sea_sun88
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Wow Claritamaria, Risingpower1, those orchids are gorgeous. I think I might try a fragrant Orchid. If they are as easy to take care as a Phal then I am hooked. Since I am a beginner, I need to learn more about Orchids.
    Thanks so much.

    Sea Sun 88

  • risingpower1
    17 years ago

    Prismatocarpa and cochleata aren't fragrant. However, chondylobulbon, fragrans, radiata and citrina are but a few of the encyclias that are.

    RP1

  • claritamaria
    17 years ago

    Hi Sea Sun
    I treat them similar to traditional Phals and they do fine. I also agree with RP1 about fragrance choices. Have the ones he lists above. Nice!

    If you buy a new Encyclia, they are smaller than phals, photos can be deceving (except RP1's. I think he grows monsters!) My cochleata is about 3/4" without the tails (just the violet part). I have really enjoyed them. I had forgotten all about them.

    The site below is ok for some info too. Some of it it is members only but it can give you some starting info and pics!

    Clara

    Here is a link that might be useful: Basic Encyclia Info

  • terpguy
    17 years ago

    RP, cochleata actually is moderately fragrant. Not the most pleasant fragrance, but not the worst either. I can smell mine when i'm about 6" away from it.

  • risingpower1
    17 years ago

    In my experience I've never noticed any fragrance on a cochleata. Chondylobulbon filled the greenhouse I was in with a marzipan like scent.

    If you can smell something on a cochleata, you'd be blown away by stanhopeas.

    There's an alba which is supposedly slightly fragrant.

    RP1

  • sea_sun88
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    I appreciate you guys taking your time to help me out. I really think that the Encyclia is so pretty. The cochleata is so cute. It almost looks like it has tiny little hands.
    Also I love the markings on the Chondylobulbon. So pretty. I need to think about it. But I will go to my local nursery, where they sell orchids to see the ones that you guys recomended.

  • cbarry
    17 years ago

    So sea_sun, Please, what are your conditions? Howard hinted at this question and those of us who understand his concerns know that we all (really) want more detail to really advise you.

    --Do you have N, E, W, or S light?
    --Is it on the window sill or how far away from the window sill?

    You see, light is a huge part of being able to rebloom orchids. You either need to select orchids that will grow in your conditions (which I'm not sure any of us know what they are) or you can supplement your light (easily and cheaply) to support your orchids.

    That said, paphs do grow slowly, but a well grown paph, will bloom every year, and the blooms ca last for weeks. I find them to be easy. I have never been able to bloom an encyclia (IMO they require A LOT of light).

    So, please tell us about the light for your lovely phal, this will also help to insure that it will bloom for you again.

    Carolyn

  • tommyr_gw Zone 6
    17 years ago

    I'll also vote for Paphs and Oncs., I can't rebloom Phals to save my life, I think it needs cooler temps in the fall to gets buds forming...

    Tom

  • highjack
    17 years ago

    Tom can't you keep your phals outside in the fall to achieve lower temps? They can take overnight temps down to 50 for a couple of weeks and then throw spikes like crazy when you bring them back in.

    Brooke

  • sea_sun88
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    I live in San Diego where sometimes it can be in the mid 70s. I place my phal in my room which faces a south window. Its approxitmaly 5 feet away from the window and its in a stand. Its doing good because I bought it in Feb there was some buds close, all of the buds opened. I feed my orchid BETTER GRO. Also I get tons of sunshine. This is the only room where it gets sunshine all day long.

    Chelsea
    "Sea Sun88"

  • tommyr_gw Zone 6
    17 years ago

    Brook,
    Hi! Yes I can keep mine outside, I will do that this fall to see what happens. I do it with my xmas and thanksgiving cactus anyway so what the heck! Thanks for replying!

  • mehitabel
    17 years ago

    Seasun, a south window is great, but 5 feet away is too far. You are not giving your phal enough light and it will decline into death if you leave it where it is.

    Orchids take some time to die, so you'll think you're doing fine, doing ok, maybe not growing like it should. Oh NO!!! What happened to my beautiful orchid????

    Here's how where to put the phal figures: phals need about 1000 footcandles of light to grow and bloom. *Outside* at high noon = app 10,000 FC. You are never getting anything near that indoors because of the ceiling and roof of the house cutting off that directly overhead sun. All you are getting is the slanting sun, of much less than 10,000FC.

    Cut in half by the window glass and screen. Cut in half again *for every foot away from the window*. At 5 feet from your south window you are giving it *100FC or less* by my fairly generous estimate of what your south window actually lets in.

    In St Louis, I can keep phals *in* a south window with no damage, just far enough from the pane for a shade to slide down.

    Start moving it closer to the window. The first day move it to about 2 feet from the window. Leave it there a day or two, feeling the leaves where the sun falls on them (if it does). If they are hot, it's too much light, move at least 6" further away. If barely warm or cool, move closer.

    Repeat above, moving it 6" closer to the window every couple of days til you are at the place where nearer the window = leaves are hot (or it's in the window).

    There's been a lot of discussion with newbies about how much light to give phals here lately. Mostly newbies wanting to argue for keeping it on an inside wall in a bookcase where it looks great, more experienced growers arguing for more light, LOTS more.

    Your phal will love you if you do a search for these threads. Use the search function and put in something lilike "phal + light".

    If you leave it where it is and it dies in 6 months, put it down to needing to learn things the hard way. Actually that's how most of us learned this lesson.

  • highjack
    17 years ago

    Good luck with your phals Tom. They really should respond with some temp flunctuations in the fall. For me, these are the easiest type to grow and bloom.

    Brooke

  • sea_sun88
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Oh gosh. I never knew that I was doing harm to my phal. I always thought thought that I was helping it by not bringing it close to the window. Thanks alot for the useful information. I really appreciate it.

    Chelsea

  • mehitabel
    17 years ago

    Seasun, not meant to frighten you. Try to find those old threads on light for phals. You'll learn a lot.

    Just be sure to add more light gradually, giving it at least a couple of days in the new situation to adapt to the increase in light before moving it closer again. Your move toward the window should take place over a week to 10 days, a smallish move every couple of days.

    A sudden move to a lot more light can cause sunburn to the leaves, but if you move it to more light gradually, your plant can take a lot more light.

    The damage from sunburn happens when the leaves get too hot, especially on the flat part with the sun falling directly on it. So make sure you feel the leaves several times a day to make sure they aren't getting hot, especially if there is sun actually on them.

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