i would go with oaks .... but i wouldnt have a century or two.. to wait for something spectacular ...

ergo.. i would fall back to conifers ... year round interest for sure

some pix below

ken
{{gwi:329717}}

the next two are nearly identical views .. perhaps a year and a season apart ...
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pretend my chair.. is your window view ....
{{gwi:325843}}

English oak slow growing??? Well, I guess there are different strains. I have some planted at my Western MD timberland place and they are growing very, very fast--just about 3 feet per year in two or three growth flushes. I have a group planted next to a red oak of the same age--red oaks are one of the faster growing oaks--and my English oaks are about 25 feet taller after about 25 years.

I planted a very weak seedling from one of these trees at my place in Winchester, VA (Z6) and it has been growing very, very fast. It is still very small, but last year, starting from a seedling about 15 inches tall, it grew 2 1/2 feet. It may grow over 3 feet this year. I have been watering it during droughts.

One of the fastest growing oak trees is supposed to be a hybrid between bur oak and English oak. You could consider that.

--Spruce

hey spruce.. i have oaks doing 3 to 5 feet per year ...

from acorns planted by nut rats ...

and from bare root 6 footers 8 years back ... some now going on 20 feet ...

but when i think STRUCTURE .... i think of LARGE OAKS .. i think decades... or centuries ...

BTW... redbud have some nice structure.. grow pretty fast.. and have a spring show ...

anyway.. i guess the poster could better define what they are looking for in terms of STRUCTURE ... to further the discussion ..

the conifers.. add structure to the garden beds ... trees have their own structure ... which are we talking about??

ken

I have an open grown pagoda dogwood, Cornus alternifolia. It's not a large tree, maybe 25' tall, but it is sited as a specimen. I love the layering form of the branches against the snow in the winter and how that affects the leaves and flowers and berries during the growing season causing them to have a layered look as well. Nice, but pastel autumn color, rather like a ripe peach.

I also love sugar maples. The form & the autumn color of a large sugar maple is just stunning.

What about this one? Slow, but very dramatic.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kentucky coffeetree - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Thanks for these suggestions. I have not grown oaks, but have read that they are slow growing, but apparently those of you with experience would contradict that. Good to know!

The pagoda dogwood is beautiful, but prefers shade /part shade and this would be full sun.

I have lots and lots of evergreens around the perimeter of the property (pines, spruce, firs) so am not looking for more of those. I want something where the branching structure will look great silhouetted against the sky.

The coffee tree has a great form! Now to see if I could find one for sale.

I have about 7 redbuds in another part of the property. I like them but am looking for something bigger here.

I have many acres so it would not be crowded or get too big for its spot.

Thanks everyone

it is an old wives tale .. that oaks are slow ...

given proper soil .... and proper water ...

ken

My vote would be for a White Oak. They are spectacular as they age but slow... After that I would recommend a conifer such as a white pine( Pinus Strobus). Mature white pines are very attractive.

David

Long branches and huge overall size of red oak don't come from slow growth. A big English oak on a lush lawn in Olympia, WA was found to have been rapidly increasing trunk diameter in particular when measured at intervals.

Hi!

I'd go with a Shagbark Hickory, some type of oak (White/Red), or a Japanese Katsura tree. I love these trees. If I could I would have these as specimen trees! Once established and in a good home they will begin to grow 1-2' a year.

Shagbark is great, oaks are too,
but for winter structure how 'bout Black Tupelo.
(Great Fall color as well)

tj

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:329716}}

Of Course! How could I forget Nyssa sylvatica? The form is very nice. The later branches are at a 90 degree angle to the main trunk. A very aesthetic form.

For hardwoods that really have good form/outline in winter, here are my top choices:

1. The Kentucky coffeetree--mentiioned earlier. Forest Farm has them, but for me they have been slow starters, but after three years or so they grow fairly fast.

2. Eastern White oak. Not the fastest grower, but not as slow as some people think. The twigs are not as thick as the coffeetree, but the beauty of the overall form is unmatched by any hardwood tree I know. I would make this #1, except for the very unique impression a coffeetree can make with its thick twigs and, with many individuals, the upsweep aspect of a portion of the crown.

3. Black Walnut--another "heavy twigged" tree that makes a nice winter outline.

4. Ditto--bur oak

I dont' know of any of the very fastest growing trees I would recommend for what I think you are looking for.

--Spruce

Two other suggestions would be Sycamore and Tulip Tree. Both are large and have a good growth rate. Sycamores white bark would stand out. Tulip trees get very large and if you have the space would look great.

David

If your looking at White Oak as a possibility,There are Hybrid White oak that are said to grow faster.Bebbs oak I think thats it's name.
If it was mine I would plant two trees,a fast grower and the white oak.I would buy a Chamaecyparis Nootkatensis pendula.I have seen some at our nurseries six -seven feet tall.Once the oak starts to look really good you could cut the other one out.

lp

Ah, yes, as picea suggests, the sycamore--and best the pure American sycamore. When these get large and old the form can have a picturesque irregularity, and the white patches on the bark make it one spectacular tree in winter. I love tuliptree, but for me the winter form is not outstanding. But they are fast growing. When young, they do have a nice symmetry that can show up nicely in a winter landscape.

The sycamore with its color makes me think of golden weeping willows. I have two planted at my place here in VA, and the golden winter color gives wonderful life to our landscape here.

For a conifer, eastern white pine or Norway spruce would be my favorites.

I have planted three of the "Taco bebbs" oaks from Oikos, but I have never seen, as far as I know, a mature bebbs oak. Do they have a form like a white oak, or is it more like a bur oak? Another oak that I think looks really nice in winter is the swamp white oak.

--Spruce

I have not seen a mature Bebbs oak either.I planted a couple Bebbs and Taco Bebbs.There is a picture of one on the Morse Nursery web site.It looks a lot like White oak w/horizontal far reaching limbs.
I hope they grow as fast as they say.

lp

Here is a link that might be useful: Bebbs oak

I'd throw in another vote for Coffeetree, and a vote AGAINST English Oak. Even though it's one of the faster-growing oaks, it can be somewhat variable in form as well as pest/disease resistance. In my area English oaks are susceptible to powdery mildew and are often attacked by borers. Also, there may be the danger of "genetic pollution" (gene flow) to native white oak populations.

Bebb oak is a naturally-occurring hybrid that is not uncommon here in southern MI. Mature form is intermediate between the parent species (Bur/White).

I have seen some beautiful Sycamore and Tulip trees. They both will give you great form and fall color. The Tulip is one of my favorite trees, has green flowers in the spring.

One of the most striking trees I have ever seen, is a London Plane tree on the Michigan State campus in Lansing MI. It is centered in an open spot with buildings around. Tree is huge, with great profile. While similar to the Scyamore, it is way larger, more impressive and also has the lighter color bark below the crown.

Some photos of both Sycamore and London Plane trees are at the site below. They are not the same tree, just similar.

I also really like the Dawn Redwood, which does alright in NY state. They are slower growing in reaching maturity. There is one along the Lake that we saw on vacation. So they can take the cold. It was a street tree in that small town, probably 50 years old, from when the seedlings first became available. Just lovely red bark and gnarly trunk, feathery foliage. Caught my eye from two streets over! Went around the block to see it. Seldom seen except at special places like Wintethur in Del., where we had just been visiting. It had nice upper shape and they lose their leaves in winter so you can see the branching. I have a small Redwood in my acreage, grows a couple feet a year. They do need some regular water to be happy. Probably fine after getting longer roots than mine has at about 5yrs old, 7ft.

I am going to try some beech trees this summer. I have heard nice things about them. Photos of crown shape and large trunks are attractive in mature trees. We have no Beech around that I know of, supposed to be a good tree for forests, provides food for the animals. Worth a try, see how it grows.

Tri-Color beeches have gotten some good write-ups. Bark and leaves are very attractive, being promoted in magazines and planting lists. Not sure how big it gets. Pretty in the TV shows, but not big because they are prospective plants to be put in their landscape.

Catalpa is a nice tree locally. Good size with wonderful spring bloom over a long time. Looks like the tree is set with boquets of blooms Seed pods should be no problem out in a field. They get quite large around here, with a nicely rounded top, do fine in the cold weather.

I like to go for tree diversity, break out of the common plantings of Oak, Maple, that are seen around here. I have some Katsura trees, which I am told smell like Cinnamon in fall, have stupendous fall color. I got dwarf trees, to give them a try. They also like a bit of damp ground. Not sure if the full size ones would have the shape and size you want, but another option.

Here is a link that might be useful: London Plane Tree and Sycamores

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I love trees and have planted thousands of seedlings and hundreds of saplings.

I planted London plane trees lining my driveway (still small) and sycamores by the barn. I have 7 catalpas I planted in a circle to make a "grove". I have several dawn redwoods throughout the property but the deer love these more than any other tree and I am not hopeful they will make it after repeatedly being chomped to bits. I have several katsura trees in a nursery bed, waiting for them to get larger before I plant them out, even when small they have a delicious fall "cotton candy" scent.

I am now leaning towards Eastern white oak, a tulip tree, or kentucky coffee tree. Heck I'll probably get them all and find another spot for the others.

Thanks everyone

The Pin Oak has a well defined winter outline from afar. It's lower limbs on a mature tree always point down; the middle limbs are straight out, and the upper limbs are pointing upwards. Easily identified silhouette in the winter. Do not ever prune this tree if you are interested in the winter silhouette. Another one of natures signitures.
Quercus Palustris

goodhors- The photos of Sycamores and London Plane trees in the link you posted are striking - in all seasons. I was especially taken with the winter photos. I am not familiar with the London Plane tree, have limited familiarity with Sycamores.

I'm looking for a few striking trees for my property, but we live on the Chesapeake Bay so there are challenges. In summer, we have weeks of wind out of the south - great for people, stressful for trees and other plants. Tropical storms and an occasional hurricane arrive in late summer. Winter brings nor'easters. Only the strong survive.

Finding trees that can survive (and ultimately thrive) in these conditions is a challenge. Two years ago, I planted a grove of bald cypresses - they lost all their needles and struggled but are holding their own. Last year, I planted live oaks and magnolias. The oaks dropped all their leaves immediately. I'm hoping they will recover this spring. The magnolias have taken a beating but look pretty good.

Do you think sycamores or London Plane trees could handle these conditions? The shapes and structure of the mature trees are lovely.

Pam

"The pagoda dogwood is beautiful, but prefers shade /part shade and this would be full sun."

Actually, I have several in all day sun and they look fuller and have both better bloom and fall color than the ones that grow in the shade. I think that it might need shade farther south, but around here, it isn't necessary at all. I've recently planted three more where they will get full sun since I like them so much. You are close enough in zone to me that you might find that sun isn't a problem at all. I have acid, very fine sandy loam soil.

Gottagarden - would a horse chestnut, Aesculus hippocastanum, grow in your climate? You get wonderful fat shiny 'sticky buds' in Winter, exquisite unfurling foliage in Spring and amazing blossom in early Summer. But the leaves do shrivel up a bit in hot Summers so no Autumn colour. But then you get the 'conkers' which are beautiful. Also, given your interest in cottage gardening, you would have one of the trees most evocative of an English parkland landscape.

Here is a link that might be useful: Horse chestnut

I have seen mature Bebbs Oaks around here. I've even taken photos of them. Very much like a white oak.

I would plant a Japanese larch (Larix kaempferi). I love the way snow lays on their branches in winter and how the branches become heavy with cones as they get older. Plus, they are tough, adaptable and 3'/year is a slow year for these when they are young. I have some I planted about 10 years ago in Ohio that are now 40'+ tall.

Oaks are nice, but so common and to me aren't too interesting until they have advanced in age.

Pam Chesbay, I am not sure about the London Planetrees in your area. I have only seen the one at MSU in Lansing, just was struck by the beautiful shape and look.

I checked my Dirr book, and it said London Planes are greatly successfull in all kinds of ground and locations, as are the Sycamores. This would be why they make such successful street trees with pollution to live in. Dirr did say they need lots of room, and drop a lot of foliage and seeds. So they were not their best near homes. Kind of contradictory reading.

Not sure where you will find them, but a search should turn up something. I would sure give them a try if I had room. The only possible place would be next to the neighbors hedgerow of pines. Would be funny to see who grew the tallest and shaded out whom. Probably would not live that long though!

I think the first few years of new plantings are always the most difficult. Trees struggle, take time to get comfortable in their new settings. I try to keep mine watered well, even if I have to haul it for them. The smallest ones seem to get with it a bit faster, but you have longer to wait on them for size. Also have to protect them from the rabbits around here. Deer have plenty to eat in unworked farm land, so far not bothering my plantings and young trees.

If you have the space, go for it! Plant several if you can, bound to have a failure now and again, even with the best care.

There is another thread starting on London Planetrees, though he is looking for specific kinds. Maybe it will give some sources as folks comment and add knowledge. Your effort to add trees is commendable, and such nice trees too.

goodhors: Thank you for the advice. After reading your original post, I did research - the London Planetree and Sycamore are rated as very tolerant of windy conditions.

I'm planting 5 1/2 acres that was devastated by a hurricane in 2003 - I had a huge empty field. With advice and encouragement from people on this forum, I planted more than 1,000 seedlings last year - hardwoods, wildlife trees, a large grove of bald cypress, large and small groves of longleaf pines, and more.

This year, I'm replacing seedlings that didn't survive and looking for large, dramatic trees to plant in areas nearer the house. I won't plant any trees upwind of the house.

I found two sources for London Plane trees and sycamores on Dave's Garden - they are small trees (saplings) but small trees seem to settle in and acclimate faster.

I'll check the other thread about London Plane trees.

Thanks again,
Pam

nhbabs - thanks for correcting me on the pagoda dogwood. I did some more reading and it seems as if full sun might be okay in our climate. I actually have one growing in my nursery bed which must be planted this year because it is getting big. I plan to put a large woven wire fence around it for the first several years so the deer will leave it long enough to get large.

Flora-uk - horse chestnuts! What a great idea! I remember when I was a kid and we used to collect them, they were treasures and we made necklaces out of them, pretended we were Indians, etc. There are none anywhere near my property, but I know they do grow around here. I have a different spot for it with more moisture that would probably be better. Thanks for the idea, I think having conkers again would be fun.

Just a note on the horse chestnuts, is that locally in Lansing,they get kind of ratty looking in the late summer season. Never kills them off, they still grow well, but foliage is not attractive in late summer.

They are an attractive tree in shape.

I always enjoy finding the nuts, just the color of my old horse, equally shiny. We used to enjoy using the nuts for all kinds of kid things.

IME horeschestnuts cast heavy shade that make turf underneath problematic. I had a ~65-foot London plane in the front yard in Sacto, had a red hawk nest in the middle of town. Great form, tends to self-prune and is messy, but very attractive and resilient. I got anthracnose on mine every year, summer leaf drop and the hirsute bottom of leaves drove my allergies crazy when I raked.

If it were my yard, putting my arborist hat on, I'd go with Nyssa sylvatica or an oak out of the red group.

Dan

Here in MN, so this may not apply out east, Pagoda Dogwood struggles when planted in full sun combined with drought stress. It often succumbs to some canker diseases that can severely disfigure the tree under these conditions.