I just typed in "olive tree pruning" at google and got several sites. I'm interested as I think I'm going to get a olive tree soon as I find out what growing zones are best for them. I use to cure several gallons of olives every year. They were great, can't hardly eat a canned olive anymore. Hope google helps you out! Pat

Thanks for the suggestion, but I already did that and wasn't really happy with any of the results. I cobbled together a few pieces of info, but didn't really find the total info I want. I would like a good looking, well-shaped tree that still produces some fruit. Around here they hack/mutilate the large yard Olive trees... and they look it. I guess I'm wanting a tree that really looks nice as a specimen, so I want to do this first pruning correctly.

According to the AHS, Olea is in pruning group 1, which means, when dormant, "remove wayward or crossing shoots to maintain permanent, healthy framework," for what it's worth. :)

Brenda

So fast growing, that I would recommend pruning it to thin out congested growth, crossing branches, and open it up and allow the longer branches to get more tree like. I usually end up shortening the downward longest lengths of branches as well, to get the tree to be abit more vertical. I also typically will prune out some of the competing leaders, to form a main framework of 4 to 6 main vertical trunks. Don't be afraid to prune it heavily, you really can't hurt an olive, and it will need it again in 6 months time in any case...

This is kinda what I thought, bahia; but I got thrown by something I read on one of the Google sites. It said that to watch where you cut because you only get new growth within 6 inches of the cut. I don't want to end up with a bunch of "witches hands." Have you found this to be a problem?

No, I haven't Westelle. I suspect this refers to not leaving stubs when you prune. If you are always pruning to a side branch, in essence thinning and heading back, you can also shorten extra long young willowy branches, and they will tend to have multiple new shoots near the cuts. I think it is the nature of Olive trees to want to be very dense and shade their own roots, probably as a defense against long hot summers and drying winds. To open them up as young plants will take continued pruning, as they want to "recover" their density if left to themselves.

Thank you for your input, bahia.. I think I'll do a little thinning for form and just leave it more bushy for the time being.