What is the size of your flue? I'd think you want a 10" round or about 80 square inches of cross sectional area (e.g. 8x10 rectangular) in order to support the 1200 cfm that Capital recommends and that you probably need with the grill. Could you run it to the right along the ceiling joists to an external wall?

I think the island vs. wall decision will depend on how you can support the hood. I would think most wall hoods require supporting structures behind the hood and I'm not sure you could anchor it to the chimney.

Don,

Thanks for your note.

I'm not sure about the flue size. I have a call in to our chimney guy with that exact question. One guy on the HVAC forum advised me not to consider anything less than a 10" pipe with this range. Trevor Lawson at Eurostoves (who as I understand it, assisted Capital with the design of the Culinarian) told me 10" would be best but that I could go smaller, it would just be louder. I think he has his working 48" culinarian in his cooking school kitchen hooked up to a smaller vent pipe and it seems to clear grill smoke, etc. just fine.

I hadn't really considered your idea of running the vent across the ceiling joists. I think that could work as there is a low, shed roof to the far right (where the pantry will be located). Not sure how that would look visually, but perhaps not bad, esp. if I could use 8x10 rectangular ducting as the cross-joists drop down about 8 inches. That would actually potentially be a shorter run than to the top of the chimney. Good idea to consider!

Thanks!

You need a 10 inch duct to handle the airflow to vent that cooktop.

The duct does not have to exit in the center of the hood. This should help you a lot with placement. Modernaire can make one for you and Trevor can handle the order.

You could have a rustic wood hood made to match the decor in your kitchen and a custom hood liner with the duct exhaust exactly where you want it.

Billy

As noted above, maybe a liner (hood without a fancy exterior) would be best for wood integration. I have a Wolf Pro Island hood, and it fits my desired hood height under an 8-foot ceiling by using a 1-foot extension. A seven-foot ceiling would seem to match the hood (or its equivalent liner) without an extension. In any case, island hoods are intended to duct upward, so you either have to put a bend in where the beams are, or continue through the ceiling.

It is too bad that the main beam passes close to the chimney that you want to center the hood on. A large, quasi-commercial style hood at the ceiling could provide a large enough capture zone while being perhaps less obtrusive.

Besides the question on the chimney sectional area, there is a possible issue with grease transport through a normal chimney, not that it hasn't been done for centuries, but then the heat source was a hot wood fire. The cooler internal tiles or whatever are being used to line the chimney will tend to collect grease more easily than thin sheet metal ducting that will tend to warm quickly. So the same issues as with wood creosote build-up may be in play.

Also, using the chimney forces you to use an internal blower at the hood, rather than an external blower on the roof or exterior wall. An internal blower will be noisier for a given blower design and flow rate.

What is above the ceiling by the chimney?

kas

P.S. If you have a strict code authority, they may assert that if the hood directions call for ducting, then you have to use ducting, no matter how safe the chimney option is.

kas

Thanks kas,

We had intended to run a metal duct down through the chimney. Unfortunately, i'm thinking we couldn't get more than 6" pipe down there, so that might not work.

Above the ceiling is a closet. We might have to sacrifice some of that closet for a solo, 10" vent pipe. Not sure how it'll all work. Going to need to discuss w/ our contractor.

I looked into the code and venting through the lined chimney is fine as long as the flue isn't shared.

I considered locating the range in the recessed area where the stereo is, as it would fit nicely there, but it would disrupt my work triangle so i'm not wild about the idea. Also aesthetically i like the stainless steel range and hood against the red brick of the chimney. Was planning to do a stainless shelf unit to fill the gap in the cutout/recessed portion of the chimney.

Thanks for your insight. Will definitely look into running new pipe straight up through the closet.

Above the shelf you may want to add a panel at the hood level to keep uprising effluent from trying to sneak past the hood via the "gap."

If you run the duct through the closet and seal it off, I suggest that the wall section you build be removable, and that the inside surfaces be lined with firecode sheetrock. Just in case.

Fiberglass insulation in the walls around the duct will help reduce noise if the closet is in a bedroom. Even better is a third piece of sheetrock, loosely held in place, with fiberglass on both sides so the wall section is a sandwich of sheetrock, fiberglass, floating sheetrock, fiberglass, firecode sheetrock. This will be very effective at noise reduction because the sound has to work against the inertia of the middle piece of sheetrock to get to the other side. Of course, the 2 x 4s won't be as good, but some reduction is better than none.

kas