McRose, you might want to add zone and general location information to your profile (Your Houzz in upper right, Edit Profile, Add under About Me "My zone is: z4b-5a NH" (whatever is appropriate for you) so that it will pop up in all your posts. If you have information about your soil and sun exposure, I'd add that as well, and if not, I'd do a soil test. What are your small mammals that might bother your garden? (woodchucks, voles, rabbits, squirrels?) If you have burrowing animals, often folks use a metal mesh fence both a few feet above ground and also extending below ground (often along with a more ornamental one.)

My current garden is 20' x 50' for two of us and I think is about right in size for us. At our previous home and garden we used raised beds, but had a similar area. I don't grow any of my perennial crops in the veggie garden (rhubarb, asparagus, horseradish, blueberries) because it makes it easier when dumping manure and turning it in, but this wouldn't be an issue with raised beds if each bed was either annual or perennial. I like beds to max out at 4' in width since about 2' is my maximum reach, so that lets me get to the middle of beds. We purposely created paths wide enough between raised beds to take our garden cart to help move materials in and out. For insect pests on crops like cabbage family and potatoes, I put hoops of black plumbing pipe in arches over the bed (I used metal half-clamps on the sides of my raised beds, but just stick them into the ground in my current garden) and stretch tulle (a fine mesh net) over them.

IME, deer are attracted to apple trees and birds to blueberries. We use bird netting on a frame to discourage the birds from eating the blueberries. Strawberries are eaten by chipmunks and squirrels and we ended up putting a wood-framed, metal mesh cover over them.

Think about sun and shade created by trees when you site the veggie garden and the fruit trees, not just at one time of year, but throughout the growing season as the sun angles change. How large you want the garden to be depends somewhat on your season length (mine is short enough that I can't use the same area for a second crop in most cases), how much storage space you have, and how much time and energy you have to devote to the garden. I would probably start with a smaller garden the first year or two (with a temporary fence of some type) and add on as you get a real idea of time, cost, and energy involved. If you create the plan for expansion when you design the garden, it will end up looking more aesthetically pleasing and more practical for use than if you add on in an unplanned fashion. For our raised bed garden, we started with 4 beds that were 4' x 16' the first year, and then added on over the years, but we were building the garden ourselves. Perhaps you can live with a smaller garden for a couple of seasons while you get to know the property and your preferences and then add on whatever you decide you ultimately want in a second part.

Thank you! That's super helpful! My thinking was that we're going to also build a fenced area for the dog and a deck so I'd get this done at the same time. I agree I don't want to overdo it - last year was my first time gardening at a community garden plot - 15x20 and that kept me plenty busy!

I might just keep it simple the first year and observe what kinds of pests we have around before I plan it out more thoroughly. Plus, we won't be moving into the property until June so that curtails the growing season.

Oh, we're in zone 7B - northern VA.

I like a bed that I can weed and harvest from without stepping into the bed. Something like 4-5 feet. I like to have some beds dedicated to a particular vegetable, winter squash is a good example. Squash is going to sprawl so I can only weed it until the vines start spreading. Because of sprawl, it goes into an outermost bed.

I like a trellis for sugar snaps made from concrete reinforcing mesh. The panel is held up by steel posts. I don't worry about rotating this crop so it will probably stay in place for two years or so. Here in NH the growing season is long enough so this crop can be followed by something else.

Garlic is planted in late October and harvested by the end of July (I think) so this is another bed that can be followed by something else. Last summer I had time for hakurei turnips, radishes, kale and chard as next crops for that bed (I just grow a short row of each).There are two of us plus our son and his family who join us for dinner once a week.

Blueberries need protection from birds etc in our area. I also have a brazen chipmunk who will eat fruit. We have deer but they don't seem to bother the vegetable garden since I sprayed the perimeter with deer repellant. You will also need protection for strawberries.

Since most of my herbs are perennial, they are planted in a bed convenient to the kitchen door. Basil might be in a large convenient pot or planted near the tomatoes. Keep in mind how to orient your beds. My beds are east to west but the rows in them are north to south. Keep in mind what might shadow its neighbor. Also, tree root problems seems to extend beyond the branches. I thought the roots went out underground as far as the branches but the maple tree roots keep going even further.

Asparagus will be a permanent bed plus tall fronds will shade something if planted too close.

Watermelon and cantaloupe don't grow well in our area, too far north, to be worth the space but if you grow them, I would assign a separate bed same as winter squash.

Zucchini doesn't spread that much. You can give it room next to peas but you will have to walk thru bed to harvest.

My largest beds do require narrow foot paths for harvest, etc. They are probably 5 feet front to back but long. I kind of follow Square Foot Gardening spacing suggestions so three rows of carrots might occupy a block.

You do not mention green/yellow beans or potatoes. I hadn't planned on growing potatoes since I try to avoid too many carbs but the taste is well worth it. Fingerlings are expensive to buy but easy to grow. Keep in mind you may want organically grown potatoes for your family since commercially grown potatoes have so much pesticide contamination.

Keep in mind your tastes and needs are going to change as your family grows. Experience may also encourage you to expand your garden. I though one jalapeno plant was sufficient for us and it was until I found some new recipes. You might also have new favorite varieties as you try new sources. Hence, the outside perimeter might change if you expand. Not sure how this would effect your enclosure/fencing. The damage to my winter squash was caused by small rodents. Suggest you look on pinterest for pictures of what looks good to you. I like to interplant basil, lemon gem marigolds and maybe pot marigolds with peppers. You might also like to have an unenclosed strip for flowers and large herbs as a place to encourage beneficial insects. We have a strip that includes tall grass. Love to see birds going after the grass seed and insects. Also keep in mind a future play area for the kids. We have a shady area that is perfect for a sand box or wading pool. The grandchildren can run thru sprinklers while I'm working in the garden or enjoying the shade.

I will echo some of what has been mentioned.
BUT, location, location, location is THE most important thing. 5-8 hrs of FULL sun - no shadows no shade tho shade is helpful when working the garden. Check to make sure of the times - Do NOT guess on this.

The soil can be worked later but after finding the right location do get several soil tests from your local state agriculture dept. Start amending the soil (if needed) the season before you plan to plant.

I think you will need another (separate) enclosed (and covered) area for things like the blueberries. Tho you can make it within the same area beware that blueberries like a much lower Ph. Potatoes also do but you did not mention potatoes.

I would make sure each path in or around this garden is NOT Less Than (NLT) <4 ft wide - NO Less Than. The beds should Not Be More Than 4 ft wide. You can make them longer just not wider. You should never ever walk on this bed soil again and you will never need to till it.

Read and research more info on SqFt gardening here Square Foot Gardening or do a Google on it. In Mel Bartholomew's first book on Square foot gardening he lists plant spacings which were much more accurate than in the second book which he acknowledges. The first book also contains some very useful tips on gardening.

Moles and voles were mentioned and you can bury hardware cloth to keep them out of the area.

Many of my beds are 10yrs old and are made of untreated 2x4 lumber but if money were no object I would use Trex - the same maintenance free material used to build decks.

I would consider the separate blueberry area for other perennial plants. And also consider the fruit trees casting shade and attracting animals when planning the layout. Using scratch paper or a garden notebook can make the layout easier to see.

Grass is a perennial weed that invades my vegetable garden so I prefer to use mulch for the walkways and at least a 4 foot perimeter around the garden.

You will need access to water but haven't mentioned either city or well water. Tho I like to use rainwater that is another whole project.

I like to compost on the ground right within the garden - leave room for that. Not only will the compost juices leach into the garden soil - if it is enclosed you can keep many of the omnivore rodents from accessing it. My next compost bin will be made of half-inch hardware cloth to allow for air circulation yet exclude the omnivores even tho my method keeps most at bay - that is to get the pile H-O-T, then bury any food scraps in the HOT part. btw - a compost pile needs water also.

Thank you - very helpful! We're going to check out the house again and I'll keep an eye on water access (not well water) and placement

You might consider a greenhouse location for a later date if you will start your own seeds.

Oh and plan room for flowers to help attract the need pollinators (either inside or outside of the fenced area.

My advice would be to create a walkway all around the inner perimeter of the fence. It's hard not to think about the fence as great trellis space, and to sacrifice all that square footage, but it is much easier to keep the critters out when there is a 'DMZ' separating them from tasty nibbles than when they can see/smell/taste tasty nibbles just inside the fence.

For deer, make the fence taller than you think it needs to be.

For rabbits, make sure it's made of metal.

For groundhogs, leave the top floppy so they can't climb over it, and either bury the bottom or bend the bottom outward so they can't dig under it.

~emmers (formerly of NJ)

Besides all of the above great advise, be sure (1) find out what type of critters you have and secure your garden. We have gophers galore, so we have to build raised beds with hardware cloth securely attached (2) be sure you leave enough room between beds to get your wheelbarrow not only through, but turned and dumpable without stepping into other beds to do it! The best would be about 3' wide. Also locate it where you can truck in soil/compost/wood chips or whatever. You don't want to be hauling everything by wheelbarrow around the back of the house or up or down paths. If you aren't able to plant the whole garden right away, cardboard is your friend! Just cover the beds til you're ready to amend and plant.

Finally, it sounds like you have a good budget for your garden. Take a look at some pottager garden set ups in the pottager forums or google images! Probably even u-tube.

Get a really good idea of what you want before you do a permanent set up! Possibly contact a college that has a landscape architecture program?

Good luck and keep us posted! Nancy

I think that the first year, a few experiments are fine, but really spend that year getting to know your site. Light patterns are important but it is also good to know things such as prevailing wind, which can change during the year. Start paying attention to micro-climates. Begin checking out books from the library to give ideas a chance to gestate. You do not state your experience level. If your gardening experience is limited in your climate, do not bite off too much at once and have all the joy zapped out of a project you just spent big bucks on.

When it comes to design, I do love potager designs. Mine keeps getting larger. I agree with the above about having a perimeter bed. The fence is good for trellising and it can be deeper for berry vines, etc. It is also an efficient use of space. On my latest extension, I am building long beds to be used for crops that take quite a bit of space (pumpkins, potatoes and corn). These beds will be 20 feet long. The length was chosen because many supplies come in lengths divisible by 25 feet (like soaker hoses), so the 20 feet allows me to use those easily (the extra 5 feet allows for curves in the house). Many other supplies such as row cover, red mulch, etc use these lengths, so the aim is to have things be interchangeable in the beds. Many of my regular beds are 10 feet long so I have shorter versions available for them. While I wanted more round beds in my design, they complicate the process of covering things in inclement weather, etc. so I have limited their use in my design.

I agree with the suggestions about wheelbarrow and truck access. My annual load of composted manure can be parked behind the garden area. Some of the load can be scooped with the tractor bucket but a lot of it gets hand shovel into 5 gallon buckets. The main access grassy paths are wide enough for my two wheel garden cart and the riding lawn mower. Since our veggie garden area is a distance from the house, water access was great improved when dh added a yard pump. It's actually in my high tunnel so I can water in winter but has an outside hose connection in summer. The line to the pump must be buried deep enough not to freeze in winter.

I would second the notions to not plan to do it all at once, but go slow as you learn what you really want, and the growing conditions of the property. Start small, and find out what your family will really use before doing large batch growing for canning, etc. You could start now by defining the space and adding in raised beds for the non-rotating perennials on the perimeters. Get those going this year, learn your location and plan for more next year.

We also have a community garden plot for now, but have been looking into what we'd like to develop if we have more room. Currently looking at 4'x10' bed areas where we could design different hoop covers as NHBabs speaks of--covering brassicas against bugs, or season extension on some others. Then, we could just rotate them as needed if all beds are the same dimension.

Also, what herbs are you wanting to grow? Annuals such as basil, cilantro, parsley can easily be planned into a reg garden rotation. If you're looking at perennials such as sage, thyme, oregano, etc. you may want to look into a space saver such as an herb spiral. We just rebuilt the one at my community garden, and they are also great for helping with drainage issues on the Mediterranean herbs. I have nearly 20 linear feet of grow space contained in a 5' diameter circle.

I also like to have my herb garden right near the house so I can access it summer and winter (zone 8, No CA) Nancy