Sharon here is a link from the University of Florida they speak of the importance of (Chilli Thrips.pub - Lee County Extension - University of Florida) resistance and the best way to accomplish this. Hope it works. Well it posted in the middle of my comment. At least it is there.

Wow Patty thanks. I did know that Chili thrips were damaging my roses, but I had know idea that they were hurting my hedges out front and hurting my bay laurel tree. I had thought it was something else, but after looking at the pictures I will have to start spraying some of my other plants. Thanks again for sharing the link. Pictures really help in identification.

Malathion, see the link below regarding cancer:

http://oehha.ca.gov/prop65/CRNR_notices/admin_listing/intent_to_list/090415LCset27.html

I recommend the Precautionary Principle.

I just listened to the Republican debates. One goal brought up was to "CURE" cancer. My instant thought was that it will be easier to PREVENT cancer. I have posted this example before. I knew a couple where the husband was a strong cigar smoker. Their house smelled horrible. After our first visit, we always made up an excuse not to go when invited to visit. The wife did not smoke. I was out of town when she died of lung cancer. When I returned the husband said something like the following: With all the money we have given you scientists, why haven't you scientists discovered a cure for lung cancer?"

I have chili thrips. They are the worst critters ever. They will ruin my roses (they prefer light colored) and put holes in my privet leaves. Scar my plums and nectarines along with the pears. It took me about 4 years to figure out what was causing all this damage. Malathion will not get rid of them!!! For all the fruit trees I use a dormant oil @ bud break and pray I sprayed it @ just the right time. For all other NON-food stuff I use systemic. I use ortho rose granules w/systemic in the spring and fall. I use Hi-Yield systemic lig. spray for the privets etc. I DO NOT spray anything we eat nor do I use it around the fruit trees or near our garden. Thrips blow with the wind and if you live in a area with vacant land it makes it even worse. I have even found them floating in my wine glass on the back patio. Give me aphids, ants and scorpions any day a least you can see those. Arizona

Sharon, I have used it in my garden without a problem. If you want to play it on the safe side, spray at night when there is less of a chance to burn the foliage.

My rotation:

Week 1 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC

Week 3 - Bayer Advanced

Week 5 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC

Week 7 - Ortho Rose Disease and Insect

I spray less when night time temperatures are in the 60s

Stay AWAY from heavy oil based chemicals (Neem Oil) unless we are experiencing a cold front with day temperatures in the low 60s.

Thanks for everybody's response. Kublakan thanks for the spraying rotation. I printed it out and stuck it on my gardening door.

I have another question on this.....

Some of the new growth got really bad before I was able to get the spray on the plants with all of the rain we have been having. Should I cut all of this off and let the plant put out new growth again so it isn't damaged? Or since it has already put out new growth just live with the damage because it would be taxing the plant to put out new growth again. I know I would lose a bloom cycle, but I want a healthy plant. I think I have had some spider mite damage as well as the chili thrips on a couple of my bushes.

Thanks again. I appreciate your responses.

Can you take a picture of this growth and post it here? It sounds like you have chili thrips damage, but I can't tell unless I see the damage.

Not really sure how to upload a picture. I have not done this. I will also have to borrow a camera - does this site take tiff or jpeg - thankyou

Of course it does. Do you have a cell phone with a camera? That's how I take the most of my pictures.

Yes, That is what it looks like.... only in worse shape because I let it go to long. I have started the spraying now. Some of my new growth is stunted before I sprayed it. Should I cut this off now that I am spraying and let it put out new growth again while keeping it well sprayed so it is nice and healthy foilage, or just leave it be.

Have got a camera yet :(

I would just cut off affected buds. Your plant will need all the energy it can make. I've seen affected growth grow out of the stunted phase.

Thanks. I will.

kublakan,

You wrote:

'My rotation:

Week 1 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC

Week 3 - Bayer Advanced

Week 5 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC

Week 7 - Ortho Rose Disease and Insect'

In reality I believe you are using two different neonicotinoid insecticides (imidacloprid, acetamiprid) out of the 4 insecticides you are using in your 'rotation'. These are of the same Mode of Action Group so rotating them makes no sense from the point of view of resistance management.

Similarly with the 2 out of the 3 of the fungicides you are 'rotating' (tebuconazole and triticonazole) both of them are triazoles in the same Mode of Action Group. In addition you are also regulalrly using spinosad which does result in resistance build up. On top of that you are using a pyrethroid insecticide once and mancozeb fungicide twice. The only drastic ingredient out of the ones you're using which does not supposedly suffer from resistance buildup is mancozeb.

With regards to malathion, fwiw it's banned in the EU.

"USEPA has classified mancozeb as a probable human carcinogen, and it is identified under Proposition 65 as known to the state to cause cancer."

From: http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/dept/prec/2014/011714_risk_assess_prioritization_update.pdf