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How do i rebalance a lopsided fiddle leaf fig?

HU-948828018
5 years ago

I have a healthy 20 inch fiddle leaf fig which is getting lopsided from a side branch. I'm afraid that the plant might topple or look unsightly as it gets bigger. How should I prune the plant to help it maintain its balance? Should I notch it? Or should I cut off that side branch and propagate it into a new fiddle leaf fig plant that grows upright?


Thank you.




Comments (11)

  • HU-948828018
    Original Author
    5 years ago

    Thanks Tapla for the very clear explanation. Just a check, is it true that I should attempt to pinch the top of my fiddle leaf fig only if the plant has reached my desired height? From what i have read, pinching will help in branching and making my plant bushier, but limit its vertical growth?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    5 years ago

    Pinching stops the pinched branch from ever extending again. But, that doesn't mean your tree won't grow taller. Bonsai practitioners use a really wild form of pinching to build taper into their trees so they look older.

    See the maple in the black nursery can in the middle - the one with the big white scar where the trunk was unceremoniously chopped off? The branch growing upward is the new leader. Same tree a couple of years later:
    Soon the wound will be closed and healed so you can't tell it was even there, and the branch will thicken so it is more in harmony with the size of the trunk.

    In this image ^^^, the new branch forming in the axil (crotch) of the leaf on the right will take over as the new leader. A new branch will also grow in the axil of the leaf on the left, giving you the option of deciding whether or not you want the leader to grow to the left or the right. If you want it to grow left, you would simply reprune the branch, just as it's pruned now, but just above the leaf on the left. Very soon, you won't even be able to tell where you pruned (if it's done correctly - as shown).

    As you can see, you answered your own last question. Pinching/pruning apically dominant trees like Ficus activates dormant buds proximal to the point where you pinched/pruned.

    Al


    HU-948828018 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • HU-948828018
    Original Author
    5 years ago

    Thank you for this very detailed reply. I've a much better understanding now!

  • Ali Burgess
    5 years ago

    Is there any way to encourage two branches to grow?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    5 years ago

    Please clarify what you're trying to achieve. Do you want 2 new branches to grow from the same branch, as in 2 new branches growing from the trunk, or 2 new 3rd order branches growing from a 2nd order branch? For reference: the trunk is the 1st order; branches off the trunk are 2nd order branches; branches off 2nd order branches are 3rd order, etc. Or, do you just want 2 branches to grow in random locations?

    Al

  • Ali Burgess
    5 years ago

    IM just not sure where to go from here!

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    5 years ago

    If it was mine ......

    I'd flush the soil, then make sure things were culturally ok (watering effectively, fertilizing correctly, light & temperature ok, ....). Then, I'd wait to move it outdoors into dappled or open shade when night temps are reliably above 55*. It will start to grow like it means it. At that point, I'd prune the subordinate trunk back to just above what appears to be a cluster of 3 leaves. The dominant trunk would be pruned back to about 1/2 it's ht - back to just about the ht it was when you bought it, which is written in your tree's appearance. If you follow this plan and fertilize in the luxury range, your tree will RELIABLY back-bud. You'll get several new branches that will form in the axils (crotches) of the leaves still on the tree (see example images above your posts). Allow each of these new branches to grow 3 leaves, then pinch the branch back to 2 leaves. You will get new branches in the axils of the 2 leaves that remain after pinching. This is the very best way to maximize ramification of your tree. Ramification is a fancy word for lots of leaves and many different orders of branches. Faithful pinching makes your tree as full as it can be.

    If you wish, you can start a couple of air layers now, so you don't have to feel like you're 'wasting' growth the tree has paid for?

    Al

  • Ali Burgess
    5 years ago

    Sadly I live in BC Canada so our temperatures don’t get too high at night until summer so I will have to wait until then. Also let me get a better picture of the main stem. It was cut before I bought it so the poor tree won’t grow from that spot anymore.

  • Ali Burgess
    5 years ago

    I’m obviously not a tree photographer

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    5 years ago

    Your tree is considered apically dominant. What this means is, the natural growth pattern of your tree is to favor elongation of branches instead of producing branches in the axil (crotch formed by the leaf stem and the branch it's attached to). There is a growing tip at the end of every branch that produces a hormone that suppresses side shoots. If you remove that tip, you reduce the amount of the chemical hormone flowing toward the roots, and new branches form in leaves nearest the tip of the cut branch.

    This is a cutting from which the tip was removed. Notice the new branches forming in the leaf axils. This occurs reliably, as long as your plant is growing, and that's what happened to your tree when the main trunk was severed.

    You shouldn't be dismayed that you should use restraint and wait to act until late spring or early summer to prune your tree or repot it (repotting is much more extensive than potting up). "To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven" Ecc 3:1 Your plant has natural rhythms. It's strong and robust in the late spring, summer, and early fall; tired and lazy in the winter and early spring. Understanding that rhythm exists and planning your heavy work (hard pruning and repotting) so you're taking advantage of the plants strengths and not asking much of the plant when it's sort of coasting is an important part of the growing puzzle. A plant repotted in winter or early spring might take 3-4 months to recover fully from the work; whereas, a plant repotted or pruned hard on Father's Day might take 2-3 weeks to regain its footing and it's natural defenses. Plus, knowing you're being a better nurturer for making those allowances is bound to increase the satisfaction you get from nurturing ...... which is why most of us grow plants. Generally speaking, the nurturers are better growers than those that think of plants as decorations, for obvious reasons. Too, getting in the habit of pruning in June to remove all long/lanky winter growth and pinching until fall ensures you never have to do any really major pruning.

    Please see if you find this to be of any value.

    Al