You do know that Sharp makes an OTC model?

For me, this would be perfect if they only had a convection option, too. You can even get a utensil rack for the bottom of it.

Here is a link that might be useful: sharp over the counter microwave

Ge has a few Spacemaker models that have a depth around 12", don't know if this is too small for you. It comes in the Monogram line as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: GE Microwave

There were complaints a while back about the GE spacemakers causing fires, I don't know if this has been resolved or not.

Here is a link that might be useful: Consumer Affairs link regarding GE spacemaker microwaves

I have the Sharp R-1214 which is made for this application.

I like it a lot now that it is installed. However it was tricky to get it installed to my satisfaction. It is 15+" deep, and my cabinets are not. I discussed this with KD and GC and it was worked out with some shimming of cabinets, some recessing into the wall, and a spacer so that the MW door (now flush with cabs) had clearance to open.

This is my first new MW in 27 years. While I had good luck with the old one, I do like this new one a lot.

Forgot - here is a picture:

As you can see, I ran the light rail under the MW. I also have my Seagul linear undercab lighting running under there.

>I also have my Seagul linear undercab lighting running under there.

Just curious as to why you chose this over using the built-in under cab light in the microwave? Was it to keep the light appearance the same?

Writersblock and paul,

How high off the counter is the bottom of your cabinets?

Our current 1936 cabs hang 13" off the counter, but this is too low for most coffemakers so we know we should go a little higher. We don't want the microwave to be hung too high, though.

And are you both using light rail and lighting? One advantage of the Sharp model seems to be that it comes with lighting.

We're still in the planning stages. Our current cabs are nearly 19" above the countertop, which is a bit too high. They were done that way when this place was new, because it came with one of those mammoth first-generation microwaves that needed that much height to fit on the counter.

I don't have the Sharp yet, although I am tending that way, but from looking at the design guide you can download from their site, it appears to mount to its own bracket on a stud, so I would presume you could place it however high you wanted and trim it out however necessary to make it appear part of the cabinet run.

Personally, I would like to do the corner installation if I can make it work without having to downsize the cabs on either side. I would use the light rail, but probably rely on the built-in light in that kind of location--you can use more light in a corner and I don't think a difference in light quality would be as noticeable as in a straight cabinet run.

> I would use the light rail

Actually, I'm not sure I would, now that I think about it some more. I might rather have the base of the microwave a bit lower, so it's in line with the light rail.

And personally, it doesn't bother me that the door extends out beyond the level of the cabinets, although I think it looks great the way Paul_ma did it. The counter depth refrigerator door will also extend a little beyond the surrounding cabs, so one more appliance doing that won't bug me.

The bottom of my cabinets is 18 1/4" above counters, with the 1 1/2" light rail hanging down below that.

Re the under cabinet lighting: yes, I wanted a uniform look, all controlled from the same switch. I chose the linear lighting, over fixtures, at least in part so I could do that. I think it has worked out well. (Its on in the picture.) The light in the bottom of the MW is still there and operational, but I doubt I will ever use it.

Regarding mounting of this MW: The *door* is trimmed in stainless steel (if you get that model). But the rest of the cabinet is not. It is painted silver, and isn't especially attractive. If you look at the Sharp literature, in a standard install, 1+" of the cabinet extends beyond the adjacent cabinets. I don't think this would look very good. Having the *door* extend out would probably look fine, depending on your details. The edges of the door are tapered a bit, so that on the left and right the door is about 3/4" thick, while in the middle it is thicker. My cabinet doors are also 3/4" thick. So I have the MW *case* mounted flush with the cabinet boxes. Then the edges of the MW door are flush with the adjacent cabinet door. But in that installation you need a bit of a spacer to give clearance for the door to open.

The online manuals are insufficient to get all the details of how to do such an installation. I would encourage buying the MW in advance so you can examine it in detail when making final design decisions.

This MW does snap into a mounting plate attached to the wall. But it also must be screwed to a cabinet above. So you must have something above it to attach to. Also, the power cord emerges from the top of the cabinet.

Thanks, paul. I have to say, it's kind of tiresome how little info they provide to help figure out the corner installation--we're still trying to determine how much smaller, if at all, we'd have to go with the cabs on either side.

Am I correct in thinking that it only need something above? If we did a straight run it would be at the end with no cab, only a panel, on one side. That looks like what you did--any special installation problems resulting from that?

I have had the GE Spacemaker II in use for about 18 months now and would definitely recommend it. It fits flush with the upper cabinets and we used the hanging brackets for under cab. mounting- it's not built in. I debated about making those cabinets a little shorter, but in the end, I made my cabinets all the same height and the MW hangs down lower. This has turned out to be a perfect height. I was initially concerned about the loss of useable counterspace below (there is 7 inches of clearance) but I just keep my fruit bowl there and it works fine. The inner space is fine for me, I can easily fit a 9 x 13 pan in there.

Thanks to all for your help in this thread. Looks like we can narrow the search down to the Spacemaker and the Sharp. Just need to figure out how low to hang it.

DH is amazed at the valuable advice we have gotten on this point about appliances he uses every day (so he cares about them).

DH has consistently underestimated the level of detail we need in order to get our plans finished by the architect. I think your informed replies have done wonders to convince him that I'm not crazy and I'm not alone; we really do need to work these things out ahead of time.

writer,

I agree the docs aren't that great. But I found the same with a lot of more expensive appliances too. As I said, I bought the thing in advance so I could see all the details. As it turned out, I bought it two *years* in advance. :-(

Which side do you plan to put in a corner? The hinge is on the left, so putting the right side into a corner, such as I did, is easier than the left side.

Yes, the right side of mine butts up to the panel on the side of my frig. There were no problems at all on that side. The MW does not attach to anything on either side, only the back and the top. There is a mounting plate that attaches to the wall. The MW snaps into that, which holds the rear in place. But it doesn't really support all the weight. The MW also hangs from the cabinet above via some bolts, which carry the rest of the weight.

What is above wouldn't have to be a cabinet. It could be most anything that is in the right position and can carry the weight, and that would allow the cord to extend up.

IMO the tricky parts are dealing with the depth, so that the MW is aligned with the front plane of the cabinets in the say you desire, and then, if you align them very closely, ensuring that there is clearance for the door to open.

Thanks again, Paul. There will be a shallow pantry cabinet to the right of the microwave, and nothing but a cover panel and the open space for the range hood to the left, so it sounds like it should be fine.

californiagirl, yeah, you're so right that you need to work out these details now--there are so darned many things that happen once you get started that you can't control that the more prepared you are for the things you can control, the better off you'll be.

paul_ma:

How deep are your upper cabinets? You said that the Sharp R-1214 sticks out 1" in a "standard install". I'm confused how that can be. The Sharp's depth dimension is listed as 15 9/16". In 12" uppers wouldn't the micro stick out over 3"? I would really like to use the Sharp, but I don't know how it can fit in 12" uppers without sticking out. What is your opinion based on your experience?

What I meant was that the *body* of the MW would stick out an inch or so. (I wasn't being precise - just tht it will stick out a noticeable amount.

In my kitchen the cabinets on that wall were shimmed out a bit, and the MW was recessed into the wall a bit to get the desired alignment.

I couldn't recess very much. My was is blueboard over 3/4" firring strips on concrete block. So all I could get was a bit less than 1.5".

As best I can tell, the installation instructions and pictures from Sharp assume 12" cabs and no shimming or recessing. In their pictures you can see that the MW extends beyond the cabinets. But you can't tell in detail how it looks. IMO it would look ok to have the door projecting beyond the cabinets. But the case of the MW is not especially attractive, so it will detract from the appearance.

I discussed various alternatives here a long time ago. Some people suggested using some of the thin stick-on stainless material to dress up the sides of the box. I don't know how successful that might be.

I like the MW in my installation, so I don't want to bad mouth it. But I do think it is wrong for them to pretend that the recommended installation would be appropriate. If they want to promote it that way then they ought to finish the sides of the box with stainless just like the door.

There was also a post in the kitchen forum from someone whose GC made a face frame to go around the cabinet. It was attached with industrial strength velcro so that when she wanted to remove the microwave she could just pull off the frame--very clever. I'll see if I can find that thread for you.

Here it is. Scroll down to cade's post:

Here is a link that might be useful: Where should I put my microwave?