The Aqua Flo FMHP is a direct replacement for that pump. In the presence of a spinning shaft and a loud grind, you have a bearing gone bad. If you see water dripping from the pump shaft when it runs, or rust/corrosion in that area, it failed due to lack of maintenance.

That number you gave does not pop up anywhere so the best bet is to pull the pump, have the impeller removed and the number on it can be used to determine horsepower.

repair_guy,

Thank you for the help.

Here is a picture of the pump in question. And it does drip a little water, besides the noise.

We looked up the pump on the web site and noticed that the frames are different. Would this be a problem?

The spa is 18 years old and sat for a couple of years unused.

Lynn

It's the plumbing config that you need to look at first. I'd say you'll need a measurement on the new pump from intake union to the end of the motor. You don't have a lot of room there but it looks like it would fit. I don't have the measurements on the fmhp in front of me. The big thing I see is that you appear to have a standard union on the current pump intake and most new ones will have a pump union. The threads are not the same. You also have that small line which usually needs drilled out on the new housing. Remember, that leak is certainly the cause of your failure so you need to keep on top of those things.

Here is a link to the model and they can probably get you the overall size but you still need the HP first.

http://spapartsnet.com/Spa-Pumps/02110000-1010_529_1_1.html

I just found this thread and wanted to add that I have what appears to be the same exact spa. I just took the pump out and saw that the HP is on a plate on the backside. Mine is marked 1 1/2 - 1/5.
FYI.

Looks like I have the same exact pump too, with a Franklin Electric Pool Motor with a HP of 1-1/2, with a 56J Frame. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy a new pump/motor?

Will the AquaFlow FMHP still work?

Thanks

Hi Folks. Funny I should land on this site. I DESIGNED THE Baker Hydro pump !!! That was many years ago but i will share.

The HYDRON was designed for pool and spa applications. The size of the impeller set load. We used many Motor manufactures during it's life span. Century, Franklin, G.E. etc.

It was about best bang for the buck. Business stuff K, anyways, The impeller was made from glass filled Noryl. The Back shell and front housing are glass filled ABS.

NOW THE IMPORTANT STUFF:

We made a design change about 1980. The seals reversed position !!!!!! In most pumps the Ceramic side in located on back side and the Impeller holds the spring loaded carbon side. What we found is that if a pump was starved of water the back then Ceramic seal would heat up to the point of a failure on back plate. So, I reversed the seals. Patented at that time thank you.

Now with the impeller holding the ceramic seal and with Noryl having much higher temperature withstand than the ABS and now the carbon loaded seal for the opposite side gained benefit too. The heat generated by the friction between seals was not easily transmitted via spring. Also added at that time a small mold change the had a port 1/8" or so that bleed water from outlet back to inlet and directed at seals for further cooling.

BOTH TYPES SHARE SAME SEAL SET BUT CAN APPEAR WRONG.

ANY PUMP WILL WORK. JUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO EXCEED THE RATINGS OF THE ONE ONE ARE REPLACING. VOLTAGE AND AMPS IS THE ONLY THING THAT MATTERS. CLAIMED HP OR FLOW RATE IS NOT THE CONCERN!!

Load noises can be a couple of issues depending on your sensitive.

REALLY BAD NOISE. Most likely motor bearing went bad and may have damaged 'wet end'.

MODERATE NOISE: Most likely motor bearing went bad. Cheap to DIY.

LOW NOISE: Low Noise. Air intake or cavitation from pump starving. CHECK FILTERS!

Wow this CV-19 stuff has put WAY to much time on my hands.

Stay Safe and Bless us ALL!