Lawn care regimen is in need of some guidance

8 years ago

Hello All,

Long time lurker; first time poster. I am St. Louis, MO, Zone 6a. I need some help with my lawn regimen, please. I have approximately 2500 sq. ft. of some amalgam of grass, weeds and dirt (not even sure I can call it soil). I inherited my house from my grandparents, so the property has been in the family since 1978; same as me. As a kid I remember the lawn in OK shape; my grandpa even grew some grapes. Lawn care was never top on their list, nor mine until recently. Now, with a wife, 6 month old son and two dogs, it's time to attempt having a lawn that my son can roll around in, play catch and dive for the fly balls on!

I had Scott's Lawn Service for the last couple of years and recently cancelled. I have taken some photos today which I will post. I had also taken some soil samples (in probably October), before I started traveling for work, so I never got the chance to send them in - would those still be ok to send in? Would I get a decent report or should I take new samples when it warms up? When would be the most beneficial time? Isn't it almost time to put down some pre-emergent? Or would this be unnecessary since I am going against synthetics? I tend to have a pretty good amount of weeds.

At one point, the yard was all zoysia. Now, there is very little zoysia, although I don't know what the rest of the yard is. The majority of it is still green (meaning throughout the winter). I know that doesn't narrow it down too much. It seems to grow in clusters and at completely different rates.

Currently, I bag all the clippings. The reason is because everything that doesn't Mae it through he chute to the bag lays on the ground in clumps, in the low spots, and kills everything below. I would need to rake it after every cut. Any thoughts on how to rectify this so I could mulch?

I am ready to put in the effort and money I need to begin amending my soil, just need to find out about the soil sample questions above and some tailored guidance once I get the results from Logan Labs.

There will be a multitude of questions coming, so please be patient with someone trying to make the most of their apprenticeship...

Thanks in advance for any and all help!!

Jeff

First 2 photos are the front yard

Next 3 photos are back yard

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Comments (2)

Architect97
Original Author
8 years ago
I know this is not the right place to bring this up, but I cannot edit my email address on my profile. I don't know why they insist my email is eddiegonzalez at yahoo....and my email is already in use supposedly?? Can anyone help me with that please?
kimmq
8 years ago
As long as those soil samples have been kept dry they should be okay. Contact your local office of the University of Missouri Cooperative Extension Service and they can advise you better. I think you will find the UMCES people of more help than a commercial lab.

When mowing, if the grass clippings tend to clump you are trying to mow too fast, especially if you are mulch mowing, and/or cutting too much grass at one time. Cut more often, if possible, and maybe raise the mower deck and cut less grass off.

Some simple soil test you can do that may be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

kimmq is kimmsr
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