I mean, the house is not going to fall down, those bottom 2x4's are just there to hold your window in place, the weight of the roof is being carried by the header over the window and the vertical king/jack studs on the left and right of the window.

Is it to code though? When you say you'll take 1", do you mean 1" deep from the front along the entire length of the box? Or 1" from the bottom the entire length of the box.

The real answer is ask your inspector. I don't really understand where code is "making" you have an outlet under your window. Usually if you haven't met your minimum outlets required from corners, along a wall, etc. on a counter run, you could also meet your requirements by putting two outlets in, one on each side of the window. I can't even think of the last time I saw an outlet jammed in under a window over a countertop like that.

Have your plumber cut the hole, they cut through anything.

(that is kind of an inside joke for my own benefit)

@Super Lumen, I wish we didn't have to have outlets under the windows but the receptacles have to be within 24" of the sink and every 4ft. Had no idea outlets were going to be an issue when we started otherwise I would have shortened the height of the windows a bit. Thanks for the comment, glad to know it should be fine structurally.

The receptacle will go through 1 X apron and then the wall so an inch or so deep and about an inch hole into the wood. Hope I'm making some kind of sense. We will need 2 outlets under the left window and one on the right window.

You'll be fine, as only one 2x4 sill is required. This is very common these days with large windows over the sink and updated electrical codes.

What does the junction box look like?

Right so, I didn't see that big window to your left, only the original window you posted.

As long as that smaller window is less than 48" wide, there should be no reason you need one under that window. 48" is MINIMUM, you can have more outlets to avoid it.

As for your longer window, NEC states: "Minimum height above countertop to receptacle: 15"

Many inspectors will then allow you to overrule the every 48" rule under a window because you don't HAVE 15" of wall above your countertop along the window, especially older inspectors who are used to approving kitchens for many years where you didn't have to put them under windows. They'll actually let you put the receptacles under the cabinets sometimes as an exception or not at all. This is really up to the inspector. Also: if you get permission from one inspector he/she better be the same one that comes when you are done.

If your inspector demands them, there are pop-up external outlets that mount to the face of the wall and can pop up when you need them, and require no box space in the wall. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4179111/wall-of-windows-behind-kitchen-sink-how-do-you-meet-nec-code

I'll tell you that many, many inspectors just simply ignore missing outlets under windows that come right down to the countertop over sinks. They think it's dumb to try and jam them in there, and they are probably right. "Technically" it is not to code though.

Unless that outlet is a GFI one it will not meet code that I know of if within 24 inches from the sink. Did you ask your inspector about this? Also I would do a regular horizontally installed outlet and tile around it. Also you can eliminate the one under the right hand window and put one on either side of the window as long as they are no farther than 4 ft apart.

@Mark Bischak, Architect

@Super Lumen & @Lorraine Leroux, the window on the right is 48" and then some with the trim. Thanks for the Houzz link, I'm going to check that out. I believe the plan is to have GFCI on the circuit breaker (in the garage).

Actually, they're not even holding the window in place. It's attached to the framing on the sides. It's there to hold up the siding and wall board that will be installed below the window. A hole in it isn't going to hurt anything.

The requrement for a single rough sill has been the same in 1 & 2 family building codes since the CABO Code in the mid 80's through all editions of its successor, the IRC

CABO

IRC

I would use a countertop pop up outlet if forced to do something there. See links below. It could go in counter right over a shortened drawer box there on the right.

I did a gut remodel of kitchen, fully permitted, and I have a 8ft window over sink, tight to the counter, so 10ft between outlets on that wall and no problem with inspections (of course there’s an outlet under sink).

https://www.kitchenpowerpopups.com/products/hubbell-rct200ni-surfacemount-nickel?currency=USD&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhNHai4-U9gIVFyGtBh2LVwbHEAQYASABEgJyzfD_BwE

https://www.kitchenpowerpopups.com/products/pufp-ct-ss-20a-2usb-lewelectric-square-20a_kitchen_outlet_popup_stainless?currency=USD&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqu-X9o2U9gIVoxx9Ch1XRAArEAQYAiABEgIZMfD_BwE

We had the same issue and we were able to install slim/shallow boxes in the mull/trim between the windows.

I used a similar small round outlet at the end of the island. It met code requirements.

Thank you all for your input. Our plan is to go forward with the round receptacle. I just wanted to make sure it would be okay. We have a contractor who probably knows it's fine but I wanted to make sure for myself so I could be prepared one way or the other. Now to see what he's going to charge for having to go through that 2x4 that we didn't know was there.

Thanks again for your feedback and help!

Your markings don't seem to include window trim! I suggest just calling the electrical inspector and sending a picture and let him tell you before you do all this work for nothing! We do a lot of windows down to the counters almost and never had to squeeze outlet in like that.

Good luck!

Turns out there is space to have a regular receptacle turned horizontally. That's good news but it arrived about a week late and I'm unable to return the 3 $20 round receptacles I purchased back in Jan. *sigh*

Thank you all for your help and input! Wish I had come here sooner and learned that those 2 2X4s weren't a big deal structurally.