GE 36' induction cooktop - need screws! (plus more whining)

14 years ago

Part 1

While waiting for kitchen to be finished, I scored an open box GE induction 36" cooktop for under $1k, while shopping at the Big Orange Box (HD).

Came the time to install it, I realized that the installation "kit" was missing. Store employee: "Oh, I opened the box, don't remember seeing any of that stuff."

GE -- after numerous calls to GEParts -- finally sent everything -- after only 1 call to GEAnswers (they are that good!) -- INCLUDING the 'back ordered' Heat Baffle (how did they do that??), EXCEPT FOR THE SCREWS to install such things as the Heat Baffle and hold down clips.

According to GE's computer systems: the screws are no longer 'manufactured.' As if.

I don't think GE actually makes such screws, but that same computer system doesn't list the size and shape of the screws, other than that they are hex-headed, like all the other screws on the case.

None of those other screws are the right size, BTW.

So. Can anyone out there tell me about those screws? I'm happy to go to any hardware, plumbing or electrical supplier and buy them, if only I know what to get.

GEAnswers is working on this, and they'll probably get it; but those little screws are holding up the entire job.

And, also, what does that heat baffle do??? It's tiny, it's thin, one is tempted to say flimsy. What is it supposed to do with all that heat that purportedly radiates from the bottom of the cooker?

We also have a new 36" Bosch gas cooktop available to a loving home.

Featured Answer

graffito
Original Author

14 years ago

Thank you all for your comments and guidance and support.

I'm always amazed and disappointed at what Very Big Companies do.

I have learned at least one Very Useful Thing, which should have been Obvious.

"The thing DOESN'T radiate heat."

Oh, right. Duh. That's why I bought one.

Air circulation. Uh-hunh. This seems rather critical for something intended to be mounted in a cabinet.

I should put holes in the front of the cabinet. Oh well. Ain't gonna happen.

On another sad note, I pulled up a soaked art book from our flooded basement, and looked it up on amazon. One copy available. $468. Sigh.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (8)

weiss528i
14 years ago
Just curious what you plan to place under the GE induction --- drawers? warming drawer? oven?
graffito
Original Author
14 years ago
Underneath oven we have pots and pans pullouts, as well as a top rollout (4"), in which we planned on keeping cooking utensils, when we had the gas cooktop.

There's plenty of room for heat dispersal, plus, I'm planning on cutting out the back of the cabinet as well, at least in part. I suppose I have a choice of patterns for the cutouts, it could look like an old tube tv carcase, with whatever perforations I please, or a radiator grille over a square hole, just so the heat doesn't build up inside the cabinet.
Related Professionals
Ballenger Creek Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Highland Park Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Owasso Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Pleasanton Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · West Virginia Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Eagle Mountain Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Bay Shore Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Fort Pierce Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Mooresville Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Ogden Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Sioux Falls Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Gibsonton Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · East Moline Cabinets & Cabinetry · Gaffney Cabinets & Cabinetry · Riverbank Cabinets & Cabinetry
mojavean
14 years ago
Looking at the install instructions for one of the GE induction units for sale on the Homedepot website, the actual size of the screws is not mentioned. However, there is something of a giveaway here because there are only 6 screws, presumably all the same size, and two much longer thumbscrews used to clamp the cooktop to the underside of the countertop. Anyway, the tool they say you need is a 1/4" nut driver. That means you will need small hex head screws with 1/4" size hexagonal heads. Usually these type of things are self-tapping (sharp pointed and conical threaded) but they could be regular capscrews, too. The way to tell what you need is to examine the holes carefully. Is there any appearance of threads inside the cooktop that would need a capscrew? Or are they just holes in the sheet-metal? If they are just holes then go get a selection of short reach (1/2 to 3/4" or maybe shorter to start) self-tapping sheet metal screws. Measure the diameter of the holes and then match the screws to fit that while still being able to go through the holes in the two brackets you are trying to attach. Make sure there is clearance inside the cooktop so that whatever length of screw you buy does not touch anything that could shock you.

Key here is all the brackets do is serve to clamp the cooktop down, but gravity is also helping here so I do not think any special screw is needed. All they have to do is hold the brackets in place without sticking too far into the cooktop and shorting something out. Long screws do not appear to be necessary here.
weedmeister
14 years ago
Keep the screws short. You don't want to penetrate the inner electronics with an errant screw.

The 'heat baffle' is for air circulation. The thing doesn't 'radiate heat'. The baffle is there to keep the warm air of the exhaust fan from mixing with the incoming cooler air and prevent overheating. If the unit overheats, it will shut down.
weiss528i
14 years ago
Please post pictures of your kitchen.
weissman
14 years ago
This is a new product - how could GE not know what screws to use or claim that they no longer make them. Keep after them!
weedmeister
14 years ago
The thing doesn't radiate heat any more than your TV or microwave radiates heat. The generated heat is in the pan.

As to ventilating the cabinet, many manufacturers recommend holes in either the back or sides depending on their respective fan layout. None have recommendations about cutting holes in the front.