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yandi95

please help me choose a new washer/dryer (repost)

yandi95
6 years ago

Hi,I was told to move this post into the right forum so this is a repost. sorry for the inconvenience.

So I have an old 24" kenmore "laundry center" (washer at the
bottom and dryer on top). It has a leaking problem and I think it is
time to get a new one. It sits in a closet-like kind of space on the
second floor and I originally wanted to get a pair of stacked washer and
dryer to replace it but I think installation may be a problem (but I am
open to this idea if it is doable).

For now I am thinking about getting a simple "laundry center" just like the old one.

But as far as I know, these things are not of the same quality as
they were used to be. So I am hoping if someone can recommend me a make
and model that is at least reliable enough in today's standard. I just
want a machine that I can wash and dry to an OK level in one try. I
don't really have a lot of clothing to wash at once. And a unit that is
not likely to leak (the old one did and flooded my downstairs). So far
these are what I found:

http://www.sears.com/kenmore-81422-24inch-3.8-cu-ft-electric-laundry/p-02681422000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

http://www.sears.com/kenmore-81432-24inch-3.8-cu-ft-gas-laundry/p-02681432000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

http://www.sears.com/whirlpool-full-size-stacked-laundry-unit-white/p-02608552000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=15&blockNo=15&blockType=G15

I don't really know what is the difference between them but I think
they are all non-HE and the reviews are not too good for any one of
them. I try to find a non-HE one as I heard many HE units, especially a
top-load
kind, just cannot wash
well enough with the limited water that they take.

I am hoping for your advice to pick the right machine. Many thanks!

Comments (13)

  • hcbm
    6 years ago

    How big is the space? Can a machine bigger than 24 inches fit? How much do you want to spend?

    I have compact stackable front loader washer and dryer. They clean well and are as prone to leaks as anything that uses water. Since it is on the second floor I would consider with any machine getting a pan and moisture alarm. The combination can save you a major headache.

    yandi95 thanked hcbm
  • georgect
    6 years ago

    There are two (Kenmore and Whirlpool) that are pretty much identical. It looks like there are just some visual differences and cycle names may be different.

    The other one, although it says it's electric (dryer) in the description, in the pages web address it does say "3.8-cu-ft-gas-laundry". It may be a typo. when making the web page or the description is wrong (so make sure).

    They are most likely both made by Whirlpool so if options are the same and you like the looks go with the one on sale or the better deal.

    WEIRD but the one (Item# 02681422000P Model# 81422) says the dryer power source is 110/120 volts. You can just plug it into a regular outlet. The other two are rated 220/240 volts.

    It would take a way longer time to dry if it's only using 110/120 volts. My dryer is a 220/240 and it takes 40 minutes to dry towels, underwear, socks etc. (and that's from a front load washer that spinning at 1300 revolutions per minute. All of your selections spin at 640 RPM (that affects drying time).

    If in fact the Item# 02681422000P Model# 81422 dryer is only 110/120 volts then I would not consider that one. Although it is the only one with an automatic fabric softener dispenser. So make sure what they describe is correct.

    Best of luck on which ever you get.

    yandi95 thanked georgect
  • yandi95
    Original Author
    6 years ago


    thanks for your replies. I forgot to mention that the closet is
    70"x 30" at the opening. Inside it is 34" in depth and
    86" in height. there is plenty of space above the 24" unit.
    I think it will fit a 27" unit also. maybe even a compacted
    stacked pair like you mention

    I am looking at around $1200 in budget. I can do more if needs be.
    I mean I don't think I need a speedqueen or anything like that but I
    know there is a price for reliability.

    i am a little bit concerned when you mention the 120 vs 220 volt
    thing. I can't really see behind the unit but it looks like a regular
    jack to me (so 120 volt only?) and it looks like there is only one
    outlet (do you need two to set up a stacked pair?)

    I am open to all options so if you have a particular brand and
    model to suggest, I'll consider them too. Many thanks.






  • dadoes
    6 years ago

    Model number of the machine would allow look-up of some details to confirm the voltage. Or try standing on a chair or ladder to aim your camera behind the machine over the top ... or from the side ... to get a shot of the cord and outlet. It's 120v if a gas dryer. Electric dryer could be either ... but 120v would dry much slower than 240v so that's a clue. Or check the breaker panel. A 240v circuit for the dryer would be a ganged pair of breakers, typically 30amp.

    A pair of separate machines, frontload washer with dryer set on top, requires separate electric outlets. One European brand needs one outlet ... the dryer plugs to the wall outlet, the washer plugs into the dryer.

  • yandi95
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    thanks. I'll figure that one out and post it here. so say if it is 120 volt, the only thing it will do is have a slower drying time (so it only affects the dryer?). so would a 220 volt rated unit will still work, just that the dryer will dry slower, or the whole thing is incompatible? thanks!

    also for the number of outlets issue for a stacked pair, would adding an adapter to increase the number of outlets work? or each unit require a direct outlet from the wall?

  • dadoes
    6 years ago

    A 120v circuit cannot run a 240v dryer, different plug types and 120v power isn't strong enough to make the machine run. You'd have to bring in an electrician to install a 240v circuit and outlet.

    That being said, some 240v dryers can be wired to run on either 120v or 240v power (by changing how the machine's internal wires connect at the terminal block where the cord attaches) ... but the result is that the wattage output of the heating element is 4x less at 120v than at 240v (which is where the slower drying time comes in).

    Of course a dryer that is already factory-wired for 120v is also 4x less wattage than a comparable 240v dryer. A dryer designed for only 120v power cannot be run on a 240v circuit.

    A 120v circuit can provide a maximum of 1,500 to 1,800 watts (irons, coffee makers, portable space heaters, hair dryers, etc.). A 240v 30 amp circuit can provide up to 5,600 watts (dryers, water heaters). Volts X amps = wattage. 240v x 30a = 7,200 watts ... but electrical codes limit circuit loads to 80% of the full wattage for safety reasons. Electric ranges typically are on 240v 50amp circuits (they can pull more power than an electric water heater if the oven and all the burners are on at the same time).

    yandi95 thanked dadoes
  • yandi95
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    ok, so I have 2 jack in the closet, one is 220 v and the other is 120 v, so i guess I do have options. So the next thing is should i get a laundry center or a pair of washer/dryer?

    I guess with two separated machines, if either the washer or dryer breaks down beyond repair, then I only need to replace that one, instead of throwing the whole combo away. The negative thing about this, if the washer needs to be fixed, then the repairman needs to move the dryer out of the way and I don't know if they typically charge extra for that or not. I wish I have space to avoid stacking them then this would be easy math for me.

    please give me your thoughts. Many thanks!


  • hcbm
    6 years ago

    Are you willing to put up with the learning curve required when changing from a top loader to a front loader? I would weigh the pros and cons. I'll start you off with a pro for front loader-Cleaner clothes and now top loader-Can easily add clothes after washer has started.

    yandi95 thanked hcbm
  • yandi95
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    I guess I can learn. I mean I have been using the front loader at the laundromat. Is the maintenance very different from a top loader?

    what I am thinking of, is whether the way the machines are being stacked onto one another and enclosed in a closet can present a problem when it comes to maintenance and repair and cost (I guess it is a better question to ask the repairman, but I figure maybe you would have an idea)


    otherwise I am ready to hear some recommendations on the front loaders (the dryer and washer do not need to be of the same brand).

  • jujufull
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I heard many HE units, especially a top-load kind, just cannot wash well enough with the limited water that they take.

    I know this is the conventional "wisdom", but it has not been true for my washer (Maytag Bravos), or for friends who also have HE toploaders.

    I would personally prefer Whirlpool over Kenmore, but if Whirlpool makes the Kenmore models, they may be essentially the same.

    On a vacation a few years ago when we traveled from one place to another, the first condo had a GE unit like yours. The next condo had a Maytag unit like that. The Maytag unit was exponentially better. Of course I don't know what their model numbers were or what years they were made.

  • yandi95
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    thanks. please keep the advice coming as far as the stackable washer and dryer are concerned. any specific make and model for me to look into would be best. July 4th is coming up and I hope to score a good deal as long as I know what I am looking for. Thanks

    also do they make a pan that has one removable side (so that you can slide the washing in and out without lifting it up and put it onto the pan?). I think I saw pictures of things like that though logically that wouldn't make it waterproof.

  • yandi95
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    thanks for the link! Yes that is a cool looking drain but I wish they put the removable side on the shorter edge because it wouldn't fit a front load with its current orientation. Not if you want to slide it from the front anyway.

    is this the electrolux you are talking about?

    http://www.designerappliances.com/electrolux-eifls20qsw-eied200qsw-stackit24.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwkN3KBRCu2fWmy9LLqN4BEiQANP9-WpbLOm6cFuDdV9JXaoY58TcLXzXvFYDHU61GRQNPs7kaAsIF8P8HAQ

    what's about this samsung here? I wonder why it seems to get a lot of positive reviews elsewhere but very low reviews on Amazon. In fact it is the most polarized in term of reviews I have seen:

    https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Appliance-WF42H5200AW-DV42H5200EW-Electric/dp/B00K31ADMQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498966934&sr=8-2&keywords=WF42H5000AW